Travel Vietnam 2025
On July 1st, 2025, Vietnam officially implemented a new resolution by the National Assembly that reduced the number of provinces from 63 to 28. In some cases, this was accomplished by merging existing provinces. For example, Ha Giang and Tuyen Quang provinces were merged to form a new and much larger Tuyen Quang province. Lao Cai and Yen Bai are other examples.
The new provinces are: Cao Bang, Dien Bien, Ha Tinh, Lai Chau, Lang Son, Nghe An, Quang Ninh, Thanh Hoa, Son La, Tuyen Quang, Lao Cai, Thai Nguyen, Phu Tho, Bac Ninh, Hung Yen, Ninh Binh, Quang Tri, Quang Ngai, Gia Lai, Khanh Hoa, Lam Dong, Dak Lak, Dong Nai, Tay Ninh, Vinh Long, Dong Thap, Ca Mau, and An Giang.
In addition to the changes at the provincial level, six centrally governed cities (Thành Phố is City in Vietnamese): Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), Hue, Da Nang, Can Tho, and Hai Phong.
On the local level, districts have been eliminated; they no longer exist. The new administrative structure includes wards (Phường) and communes (Xã).
What does this mean to travelers?
Google Maps is out of date. Street names are the same, but the remainder of your hotel’s address is probably not correct. Vietnam's e-visa portal (website) has been updated. Travel articles, blogs, guidebooks, vlogs, and websites (this one included) are now outdated and should be updated.
However, once on the ground in Vietnam, these administrative changes shouldn’t be an issue. A bus traveling to Sa Pa, Bac Ha, Su Phi, or Ha Giang will still deliver you to these well-known destinations.
The new provinces are: Cao Bang, Dien Bien, Ha Tinh, Lai Chau, Lang Son, Nghe An, Quang Ninh, Thanh Hoa, Son La, Tuyen Quang, Lao Cai, Thai Nguyen, Phu Tho, Bac Ninh, Hung Yen, Ninh Binh, Quang Tri, Quang Ngai, Gia Lai, Khanh Hoa, Lam Dong, Dak Lak, Dong Nai, Tay Ninh, Vinh Long, Dong Thap, Ca Mau, and An Giang.
In addition to the changes at the provincial level, six centrally governed cities (Thành Phố is City in Vietnamese): Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), Hue, Da Nang, Can Tho, and Hai Phong.
On the local level, districts have been eliminated; they no longer exist. The new administrative structure includes wards (Phường) and communes (Xã).
What does this mean to travelers?
Google Maps is out of date. Street names are the same, but the remainder of your hotel’s address is probably not correct. Vietnam's e-visa portal (website) has been updated. Travel articles, blogs, guidebooks, vlogs, and websites (this one included) are now outdated and should be updated.
However, once on the ground in Vietnam, these administrative changes shouldn’t be an issue. A bus traveling to Sa Pa, Bac Ha, Su Phi, or Ha Giang will still deliver you to these well-known destinations.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Dao Ao Dai costume, Vinh Quang, Hoang Su Phi Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel Ha Giang
Sharing a border with China, Cao Bang and Lao Cai Provinces, the former Ha Giang Province is known for spectacular scenery, a dramatic mix of high mountains, rocky cliffs, deep valleys, rivers, rice terraces, and karst hills. The northernmost reaches, Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van, and Meo Vac, are among the most remote areas in Vietnam. The Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark, a UNESCO World Heritage site, encompasses over 2,356 square kilometers (900 square miles) of this area.
Home to over 20 different minority ethnic groups, including the White Hmong, Tay, Giay, and Dao. Many of whom are subsistence farmers, and some of the country’s poorest people, as much of the northernmost reaches of Dong Van and Meo Vac are steep, rocky, and unsuitable for farming.
Not long ago, few tourists ventured to this part of Vietnam due to a lack of tourism infrastructure and the perception of a long and difficult journey. However, improvements in roads and tourism infrastructure have caused a tourism boom in far northern Vietnam. Not only are these destinations popular with foreign tourists, but also with domestic tourists from all over the country. In fact, many of the best-known destinations will be very busy with Vietnamese tourists on weekends and national holidays.
Home to over 20 different minority ethnic groups, including the White Hmong, Tay, Giay, and Dao. Many of whom are subsistence farmers, and some of the country’s poorest people, as much of the northernmost reaches of Dong Van and Meo Vac are steep, rocky, and unsuitable for farming.
Not long ago, few tourists ventured to this part of Vietnam due to a lack of tourism infrastructure and the perception of a long and difficult journey. However, improvements in roads and tourism infrastructure have caused a tourism boom in far northern Vietnam. Not only are these destinations popular with foreign tourists, but also with domestic tourists from all over the country. In fact, many of the best-known destinations will be very busy with Vietnamese tourists on weekends and national holidays.
The Ha Giang Loop
The famous Ha Giang Loop was relatively unknown a decade ago. Before the Loop became a destination in its own right, Ha Giang Province was the domain of DIY motorcycle enthusiasts and independent travelers. In some ways, Ha Giang’s recent travel boom was propelled by young budget backpackers, many of whom are incapable of operating motorbikes and are uninterested in independent travel. Much of Ha Giang’s tourism industry developed on providing inexpensive group pillon (easy rider) motorbike tours. Because of this, some older tourists have an idea that the loop is the domain of youngsters only. Nothing could be further from the truth. Due to improved road conditions and tourism infrastructure, mainstream tourists and holiday makers of all ages can enjoy the loop.
The most common version of the loop is approximately 360 kilometers. Starting and ending in Ha Giang City, it can be completed in three days/two nights by either car or motorbike. Cyclists have completed this journey in four days.
The journey is generally done in a clockwise direction. The first leg of the journey begins on National Road QL-4C in a northeasterly direction towards Dong Van. On day two, travel continues on QL-4C through the famous Ma Pi Leng Pass to the market town of Meo Vac . From Meo Vac, the most common route is to Du Gia on Provincial Road DT-176 via Mau Due. From Du Gia to Ha Giang, the journey is completed on DT-181.
Travelers who do not wish to tour the area by motorcycle can hire cars with drivers, as it is uncommon (but possible) to rent cars for self-driving in Vietnam. Recently, traveling in Soviet era UAZ-469 military jeeps has become popular. These large off-road vehicles are suitable for seven passengers in addition to the driver.
Many travelers begin and end the loop with private tours that start and end in Hanoi. These tours can be organized by travel agents in both Hanoi and Ha Giang. In this case, Ba Be Lake (Bac Kạn Province) is usually included as the first night's stop. These tours are typically at least five full days.
The most common version of the loop is approximately 360 kilometers. Starting and ending in Ha Giang City, it can be completed in three days/two nights by either car or motorbike. Cyclists have completed this journey in four days.
The journey is generally done in a clockwise direction. The first leg of the journey begins on National Road QL-4C in a northeasterly direction towards Dong Van. On day two, travel continues on QL-4C through the famous Ma Pi Leng Pass to the market town of Meo Vac . From Meo Vac, the most common route is to Du Gia on Provincial Road DT-176 via Mau Due. From Du Gia to Ha Giang, the journey is completed on DT-181.
Travelers who do not wish to tour the area by motorcycle can hire cars with drivers, as it is uncommon (but possible) to rent cars for self-driving in Vietnam. Recently, traveling in Soviet era UAZ-469 military jeeps has become popular. These large off-road vehicles are suitable for seven passengers in addition to the driver.
Many travelers begin and end the loop with private tours that start and end in Hanoi. These tours can be organized by travel agents in both Hanoi and Ha Giang. In this case, Ba Be Lake (Bac Kạn Province) is usually included as the first night's stop. These tours are typically at least five full days.
traveltoasiaandbackcom - Mâm Xôi Hoàng Su Phì, Nậm Khoá, Tuyên Quang Province
Ha Giang à la carte / DIY
DIY self-driving motorcycle enthusiasts were the backbone of Ha Giang travel before mass tourism arrived. Rent a bike, look at a map, or not, and off you go. Many agencies in Ha Giang rent motorcycles for self-guided tours.
To legally operate a motorbike in Vietnam, tourists are required to have a motorcycle endorsement on their national driver's license and a 1968 Vienna Convention International Driver's Permit (IDP). Nationals from Australia, Canada, India, the United States, or any other country that only issues 1949 Geneva Convention IDPs cannot legally drive in Vietnam.
Agencies in Hanoi and Ha Giang City can organize vehicle hire with drivers for transportation to any destination. Rates are per diem and may or may not include food and lodging for the driver. It's best to shop around a bit before committing to a particular agency. Prices vary considerably depending on the exact route and type of vehicle/passenger capacity. Drivers are not typically tour guides and may not speak much, or any English.
For a truly DIY experience, consider touring the area by bus, taxi, or motorbike taxi (xe ôm). However, it requires a degree of flexibility and patience.
Local buses and vans serve as a vital link between key towns, transporting not only passengers but also cargo. Buses are the UPS of northern Vietnam, delivering foodstuffs, household goods, small packages, documents, and building materials. Locals arrange transportation for passengers and cargo by calling bus companies or drivers directly to arrange pickup and delivery. Many minibuses and vans have no online presence and are not available for online booking. Travelers will need help from the locals to confirm departure times and pick-up points.
Car and motorbike taxis (xe ôm) are common in larger towns and cities.
To legally operate a motorbike in Vietnam, tourists are required to have a motorcycle endorsement on their national driver's license and a 1968 Vienna Convention International Driver's Permit (IDP). Nationals from Australia, Canada, India, the United States, or any other country that only issues 1949 Geneva Convention IDPs cannot legally drive in Vietnam.
Agencies in Hanoi and Ha Giang City can organize vehicle hire with drivers for transportation to any destination. Rates are per diem and may or may not include food and lodging for the driver. It's best to shop around a bit before committing to a particular agency. Prices vary considerably depending on the exact route and type of vehicle/passenger capacity. Drivers are not typically tour guides and may not speak much, or any English.
For a truly DIY experience, consider touring the area by bus, taxi, or motorbike taxi (xe ôm). However, it requires a degree of flexibility and patience.
Local buses and vans serve as a vital link between key towns, transporting not only passengers but also cargo. Buses are the UPS of northern Vietnam, delivering foodstuffs, household goods, small packages, documents, and building materials. Locals arrange transportation for passengers and cargo by calling bus companies or drivers directly to arrange pickup and delivery. Many minibuses and vans have no online presence and are not available for online booking. Travelers will need help from the locals to confirm departure times and pick-up points.
Car and motorbike taxis (xe ôm) are common in larger towns and cities.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Nà Léng, Bản Phùng Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Restricted Area Permits
In the past, a restricted area permit was required to travel to and around the northern frontier areas, formally known as Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van, and Meo Vac districts. Issued at police stations, it was valid for 10 days and cost 210,000 VND. Many hotels in the northernmost parts of the province asked to see the permit and could have refused lodging to visitors without one.
The peculiarity of the Restricted Area Permit in Vietnam is that the responsibility of enforcing permit requirements rests solely on accommodation owners/operators. A decade ago, some hotels in the northernmost parts of the province required permits and would have refused lodging to visitors without them.
However, as tourism boomed in the former districts, the locals lost interest in these permits, and the issue is no longer a concern.
The peculiarity of the Restricted Area Permit in Vietnam is that the responsibility of enforcing permit requirements rests solely on accommodation owners/operators. A decade ago, some hotels in the northernmost parts of the province required permits and would have refused lodging to visitors without them.
However, as tourism boomed in the former districts, the locals lost interest in these permits, and the issue is no longer a concern.
traveltoasiaandback,com - Tat Nga Commune, Tuyen Quang Province
The best time of year to visit Ha Giang / The weather
One interesting and challenging aspect of traveling in the mountainous regions of far northern Vietnam is that one can experience good or bad weather at any time of year. Because the loop is done as a road trip, starting on the plains and ascending up and over hills and mountains, the weather travelers experience can change hour by hour. For example, Quan Ba Heaven’s Gate and Mae Pi Leng Pass reach elevations of 4900 feet (1500 mt), where the weather can be radically different compared to Ha Giang City, which is approximately 490 feet (150 mt) above sea level.
The driest, clearest periods on the loop are approximately mid-March through April and October until mid-November.
Mainland Southeast Asia’s weather/climate is primarily a result of the southwest and northeast monsoons. Also known as the south and north monsoons, these are seasonal weather patterns that cause the rainy season, approximately May through October, and the dry season from November through April. The traditional SEA tourist season coincides with the dry season.
However, the seasons don’t change by fixed calendar dates, and there are regional variations which often coincide with altitude, latitude, and proximity to the coast. For example, the peak of the rainy season in Ha Giang is statistically August 1st, while the peak of the rainy season in Ho Chi Minh City is around mid-September, and in coastal Da Nang, mid-October.
The Typhoon Season in Vietnam is from June 1st through November. An average of four to six typhoons make landfall every year. By definition, a typhoon is a tropical cyclone with sustained winds of 64-82 knots. Tropical storms have sustained winds of 34-63 knots and tropical depressions with sustained winds of 33 knots or less.
As the typhoon and rainy seasons come to an end, by mid-November, far northern Vietnam is settling into winter. Overnight low temperatures can be unpleasantly cold, particularly at higher elevations, where high humidity can cause the apparent temperature to feel colder than what a thermometer indicates. This time of year, also known as fog season, is when low clouds, fog, and mist conspire to reduce visibility to as little as 50 meters. These periods of reduced visibility can persist for days or even weeks.
Winter in far northern Vietnam can drag on well into March. During this period, there is an average of three to four cold fronts per month. A cold front is a mass of polar air that moves southward across China and into Vietnam. Moving in a southwesterly direction, these frontal systems can produce several days of persistent, cold rain and frost. These fronts are often preceded by days of clear blue skies.
The driest, clearest periods on the loop are approximately mid-March through April and October until mid-November.
Mainland Southeast Asia’s weather/climate is primarily a result of the southwest and northeast monsoons. Also known as the south and north monsoons, these are seasonal weather patterns that cause the rainy season, approximately May through October, and the dry season from November through April. The traditional SEA tourist season coincides with the dry season.
However, the seasons don’t change by fixed calendar dates, and there are regional variations which often coincide with altitude, latitude, and proximity to the coast. For example, the peak of the rainy season in Ha Giang is statistically August 1st, while the peak of the rainy season in Ho Chi Minh City is around mid-September, and in coastal Da Nang, mid-October.
The Typhoon Season in Vietnam is from June 1st through November. An average of four to six typhoons make landfall every year. By definition, a typhoon is a tropical cyclone with sustained winds of 64-82 knots. Tropical storms have sustained winds of 34-63 knots and tropical depressions with sustained winds of 33 knots or less.
As the typhoon and rainy seasons come to an end, by mid-November, far northern Vietnam is settling into winter. Overnight low temperatures can be unpleasantly cold, particularly at higher elevations, where high humidity can cause the apparent temperature to feel colder than what a thermometer indicates. This time of year, also known as fog season, is when low clouds, fog, and mist conspire to reduce visibility to as little as 50 meters. These periods of reduced visibility can persist for days or even weeks.
Winter in far northern Vietnam can drag on well into March. During this period, there is an average of three to four cold fronts per month. A cold front is a mass of polar air that moves southward across China and into Vietnam. Moving in a southwesterly direction, these frontal systems can produce several days of persistent, cold rain and frost. These fronts are often preceded by days of clear blue skies.
traveltoasiaandback - Lung Vai, Ha Giang Ward, Tuyen Quang Province
Travel to Ha Giang City / Phường Hà Giang 1 (Ha Giang Ward 1)
Formally known as Ha Giang City, the newly formed Ha Giang Ward 1 is the capital of Ha Giang tourism. Located 176 miles (284 km) north of Hanoi, it can only be reached by road.
To reach Ha Giang from Hanoi with a private car and driver will take approximately 5.5 hours. The journey by bus is around six hours, including rest stops, coffee, and food breaks.
Many travelers start their motorbike adventures from here, renting bikes from one of the Ha Giang's many agencies, and returning them after the loop. Or, participating in group or private motorbike tours. Private car and jeep tours also start from here.
For budget-conscious or DIY travelers, bus transportation is often the most logical choice. In recent years, improvements in road conditions and transportation services have made long-haul bus travel a more pleasant experience. Travelers now have more options when choosing bus operators and vehicle types. Increased competition has led to better customer service. Bus tickets can now be purchased online directly from bus companies or third-party booking sites like vexere.com.
Although they save precious daylight hours, knowledgeable travelers do not recommend or use overnight buses. The general advice in all of mainland Southeast Asia is to limit or avoid night time road travel.
To reach Ha Giang from Hanoi with a private car and driver will take approximately 5.5 hours. The journey by bus is around six hours, including rest stops, coffee, and food breaks.
Many travelers start their motorbike adventures from here, renting bikes from one of the Ha Giang's many agencies, and returning them after the loop. Or, participating in group or private motorbike tours. Private car and jeep tours also start from here.
For budget-conscious or DIY travelers, bus transportation is often the most logical choice. In recent years, improvements in road conditions and transportation services have made long-haul bus travel a more pleasant experience. Travelers now have more options when choosing bus operators and vehicle types. Increased competition has led to better customer service. Bus tickets can now be purchased online directly from bus companies or third-party booking sites like vexere.com.
Although they save precious daylight hours, knowledgeable travelers do not recommend or use overnight buses. The general advice in all of mainland Southeast Asia is to limit or avoid night time road travel.
Many bus companies operate between Hanoi and Ha Giang. Currently (Sep. 2025), our two preferred companies are Nhà Xe Bằng Phấn and Nhà Xe Quang Nghị.
Both of these companies are also operating limo and sleeper buses between Ha Giang and Sapa.
Quang Nghi also operates mini-buses and vans between Ha Giang and Dong Van, and Ha Giang and Meo Vac.
Nhà Xe Thanh Bình Limousine operates limo mini-buses between Ha Giang and Cao Bang City.
Both of these companies are also operating limo and sleeper buses between Ha Giang and Sapa.
Quang Nghi also operates mini-buses and vans between Ha Giang and Dong Van, and Ha Giang and Meo Vac.
Nhà Xe Thanh Bình Limousine operates limo mini-buses between Ha Giang and Cao Bang City.
Although most travelers only pass through Hà Giang City on their way to the frontier, the area does offer some trekking opportunities and homestays in several traditional villages.
Located approximately 4 miles (6km) northwest of the city center, the village of Tha, in what was formerly Phương Độ commune, is popular with travelers looking to experience the peace and tranquility of village life.
Other villages off the loop and the usual Western tourist trail include: Nà Thác, Khuổi My, Lùng Vài, Tân Tiến, Tân Thành, Hạ Thành, Tha, Chang, and Lúp.
Located approximately 4 miles (6km) northwest of the city center, the village of Tha, in what was formerly Phương Độ commune, is popular with travelers looking to experience the peace and tranquility of village life.
Other villages off the loop and the usual Western tourist trail include: Nà Thác, Khuổi My, Lùng Vài, Tân Tiến, Tân Thành, Hạ Thành, Tha, Chang, and Lúp.
traveltoasiaandback.com -The Fairy Bosoms, Quản Bạ Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel to Quan Ba Commune (Xã Quản Bạ)
Traveling north on National Road QL-4C , on the clockwise loop from Ha Giang, Tam Sơn, Quan Bạ Commune, will be the first settlement that travelers reach. Roughly 31 miles (50 km) from Hà Giang City, a two-hour drive up a winding mountain road, few visitors stop here for than a few hours. However, Tam Sơn has a few hotels, restaurants, and things to see.
Here, the most well-known attractions are scenic viewpoints, one of which is a pair of limestone mounds or hills known as Núi Đôi Cô Tiên or Fairy Bosom Mountain. To get a beautiful photograph of these hills with the bright green rice terraces in the foreground, visit the hilltop observation point on QL-4C, approximately 1.25 miles (2km) south of the town center.
The other two scenic viewpoints are Quan Ba Heaven’s Gate and the Quan Ba Visitor’s Center.
Tam Son also hosts a fairly large market every Sunday morning. The market attracts ethnic minorities from Quan Ba and beyond. It is one of the largest markets in the region and is often included on tours.
Villages in Quan Ba Commune include: Nà Vìn, Lũng Khúy, Khung Nhung, Pản Hò, Trúc Sơn, Nặm Đăm, Cổng Trời, Nà Khoang II.
Here, the most well-known attractions are scenic viewpoints, one of which is a pair of limestone mounds or hills known as Núi Đôi Cô Tiên or Fairy Bosom Mountain. To get a beautiful photograph of these hills with the bright green rice terraces in the foreground, visit the hilltop observation point on QL-4C, approximately 1.25 miles (2km) south of the town center.
The other two scenic viewpoints are Quan Ba Heaven’s Gate and the Quan Ba Visitor’s Center.
Tam Son also hosts a fairly large market every Sunday morning. The market attracts ethnic minorities from Quan Ba and beyond. It is one of the largest markets in the region and is often included on tours.
Villages in Quan Ba Commune include: Nà Vìn, Lũng Khúy, Khung Nhung, Pản Hò, Trúc Sơn, Nặm Đăm, Cổng Trời, Nà Khoang II.
traveltoasiaandback.com - A woman from the Red Dao ethnic group, Nam Dam Village, Quan Ba Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel to Nam Dam Village
Located 3 miles (5 km) from Tam Son is the sleepy village of Nam Dam (Nặm Đăm). Inhabited by extremely friendly people from the Red Dao ethnic group, this small farming village is a fantastic place to do self-guided trekking and enjoy the tranquility of the countryside. Nam Dam has a community-based tourism program and simple homestays. This destination provides an excellent way to experience rural northern Vietnam at its best. Photographers will find this destination particularly appealing during the rice planting and harvesting seasons, approximately June and September, respectively.
A small waterfall known as Nai Nam Dam is easily reached from the village.
A small waterfall known as Nai Nam Dam is easily reached from the village.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Karst hills and rice fields, Yen Minh, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel to Yen Minh Commune (Xã Yên Minh)
Continuing on QL-4C for another 31 miles (50 km) towards Dong Van, travelers will reach Yen Minh Commune. This is another small settlement that is seldom more than a lunch or overnight stop for travelers on the loop. It has a handful of hotels and restaurants, but nothing notable in terms of sights.
Yen Minh hosts a market every Sunday morning. The market attracts ethnic minorities from the commune and beyond.
Yen Minh hosts a market every Sunday morning. The market attracts ethnic minorities from the commune and beyond.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Dong Van, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel to Dong Van Commune (Xã Đông Văn)
Immediately after departing Yen Minh, the highway narrows and is essentially just a lane and a half wide. Two vehicles meeting head-on will each slow down and move to the shoulder of the road as much as possible. When large trucks or buses meet, which they often do, the drivers slow to a crawl and carefully maneuver around each other. As the road narrows and snakes its way to Dong Van, the scenery becomes even more spectacular.
Located 93 miles (150 km) from Ha Giang City, Dong Van is without a doubt the tourism capital of this section of the loop. It is considered by some to have the best trekking in the region and makes a terrific base for exploring the northernmost reaches of Vietnam. Here you will find some English-speaking locals working in hotels and restaurants that provide menus in English, having become accustomed to serving foreign travelers.
Trekking, tours, and motorcycle rentals can all be organized through accommodations in Dong Van. Motorcycle taxis ( xe ôm) are easy to find and very economical to hire.
Two of the area’s most visited sites from Dong Van are the flag tower at Lung Cu, which marks the country’s northernmost point and the Hmong King Palace. The Palace, Dinh Vua Mèo or Nhà Họ Vương in Vietnamese, was the home of Ông Vương Chính Đức, the former leader of the Hmong people in Ha Giang. Also known as the Voung Palace, it was built in the early 1900’s and is an interesting mix of European and Asian architecture. Both of these sites are easily visited on a one-day tour of the northern frontier and are often included on Ha Giang loop tours.
DIY/budget travelers can easily reach Dong Van from Ha Giang by mini-bus or van. The journey is 91 miles (147 km) and takes approximately four hours.
Full-sized motor coaches are running between Hanoi and Dong Van. The journey is 272 miles (437 km) and takes approximately ten hours.
There are very few, possibly no vans or mini-buses running between Dong Van and Meo Vac. This leg is best done by motorcycle taxi or taxi for a stop at the Ma Pi Leng Pass.
Located 93 miles (150 km) from Ha Giang City, Dong Van is without a doubt the tourism capital of this section of the loop. It is considered by some to have the best trekking in the region and makes a terrific base for exploring the northernmost reaches of Vietnam. Here you will find some English-speaking locals working in hotels and restaurants that provide menus in English, having become accustomed to serving foreign travelers.
Trekking, tours, and motorcycle rentals can all be organized through accommodations in Dong Van. Motorcycle taxis ( xe ôm) are easy to find and very economical to hire.
Two of the area’s most visited sites from Dong Van are the flag tower at Lung Cu, which marks the country’s northernmost point and the Hmong King Palace. The Palace, Dinh Vua Mèo or Nhà Họ Vương in Vietnamese, was the home of Ông Vương Chính Đức, the former leader of the Hmong people in Ha Giang. Also known as the Voung Palace, it was built in the early 1900’s and is an interesting mix of European and Asian architecture. Both of these sites are easily visited on a one-day tour of the northern frontier and are often included on Ha Giang loop tours.
DIY/budget travelers can easily reach Dong Van from Ha Giang by mini-bus or van. The journey is 91 miles (147 km) and takes approximately four hours.
Full-sized motor coaches are running between Hanoi and Dong Van. The journey is 272 miles (437 km) and takes approximately ten hours.
There are very few, possibly no vans or mini-buses running between Dong Van and Meo Vac. This leg is best done by motorcycle taxi or taxi for a stop at the Ma Pi Leng Pass.
traveltoasiaandback.com - White Hmong Style, Lung Cu Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel to Lung Cu Commune (Xã Lũng Cú)
Located 15 miles (25 km) north of Dong Van, Lung Cu (Lũng Cú) is often referred to as “Vietnam’s North Pole” and is known for its stunning scenery. Inhabited primarily by White Hmong people, their lush fields of corn and hemp are surrounded by towering karst hills. Every Friday morning the locals gather in the town center where a small, but lively market is held.
Lung Cu is a great place to visit authentic traditional villages and learn about the lives of Vietnam’s minority people. Here, visitors can see many fantastic examples of hand-crafted yellow earthen homes which have been constructed using century-old techniques and simple hand tools.
Lung Cu is a great place to visit authentic traditional villages and learn about the lives of Vietnam’s minority people. Here, visitors can see many fantastic examples of hand-crafted yellow earthen homes which have been constructed using century-old techniques and simple hand tools.
traveltoasiaandback.com - A shot from the Mai Pi Leng Pass View Point, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel the Mai Pi Leng Pass
One of the most spectacular stretches of National Road QL-4C is the 14 miles (22 km) that separate Dong Van and Meo Vac Commune. Roughly thirty minutes into the journey, both locals and visitors frequently stop at a lookout point that towers 5000 feet (1500 m) above the Nho Que River. This is the Ma Pi Leng Pass, a narrow road originally carved out of the mountainside by the local minority ethnic people.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Black Dao costume, Sung Tra, Sung Mang Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel to Meo Vac Commune (Xã Mèo Vạc)
The frontier town of Meo Vạc, now a commune, is small and sleepy, only coming to life on Saturday nights and Sunday mornings when it hosts a busy weekly market. Although the town itself is not particularly interesting, it makes a convenient stopping point and is a fixture on the loop. Budget hotels and homestays are easy to find, as are reasonably good restaurants, convenience stores, and shops.
From Meo Vac, the usual 3-day loop route is on Provincial Road DT-176 to Du Gia Commune (Xã Du Già) via Mau Due (Xã Mậu Duệ) and Lung Phin (Xã Lũng Phìn) communes. This leg is 45 miles (73 km).
An alternative car/motorbike route is to take Provincial Road QL-4C to QL-34 and on to Bảo Lạc Commune in Cao Bang Province. This leg is 46 miles (74 km) and takes approximately three hours. From Bao Lac, one can return to Ha Giang and complete the loop via QL-34. This leg is 76 miles (122 km) and takes approximately four hours.
Many travelers combine the Ha Giang Loop, or parts of it, with neighboring Cao Bang Province. Cao Bang has its own loop, or travelers may continue directly to Cao Bang City.
DIY/budget travelers can easily reach Meo Vac from Ha Giang by mini-bus or van. The journey is 91 miles (146 km) and takes approximately four hours.
There are very few, possibly no vans or mini-buses running between Dong Van and Meo Vac. This leg is best done by motorcycle taxi or taxi for a stop at the Ma Pi Leng Pass.
From Meo Vac, the usual 3-day loop route is on Provincial Road DT-176 to Du Gia Commune (Xã Du Già) via Mau Due (Xã Mậu Duệ) and Lung Phin (Xã Lũng Phìn) communes. This leg is 45 miles (73 km).
An alternative car/motorbike route is to take Provincial Road QL-4C to QL-34 and on to Bảo Lạc Commune in Cao Bang Province. This leg is 46 miles (74 km) and takes approximately three hours. From Bao Lac, one can return to Ha Giang and complete the loop via QL-34. This leg is 76 miles (122 km) and takes approximately four hours.
Many travelers combine the Ha Giang Loop, or parts of it, with neighboring Cao Bang Province. Cao Bang has its own loop, or travelers may continue directly to Cao Bang City.
DIY/budget travelers can easily reach Meo Vac from Ha Giang by mini-bus or van. The journey is 91 miles (146 km) and takes approximately four hours.
There are very few, possibly no vans or mini-buses running between Dong Van and Meo Vac. This leg is best done by motorcycle taxi or taxi for a stop at the Ma Pi Leng Pass.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Sunday morning market, Meo Vac commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Meo Vac Sunday Market
Meo Vac Sunday Market is one of the largest and most interesting weekly markets in Northwestern Vietnam. It is well known to tourists and is visited by both domestic and international travelers. Like many weekly markets held in rural northern Vietnam, ethnic people from surrounding villages descend on the town to trade goods, eat, drink, and socialize. Most of the women and girls will dress in their best outfits, complete with white stockings and shoes that are much too fine to be worn in the fields. Many of the men in this area still wear traditional, simple black outfits which have been in use for centuries. Just about anything a farmer needs can be purchased here, from seeds to cows, tools to goats, clothes, food, and household goods. There is also a weekly cow market held on the same day. This is one of only a handful of livestock markets still held in Vietnam.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Lo lo costume, Meo Vac, Tuyen Quang Province
Travel to Du Gia Commune (Xã Du Già)
Du Gia is a fixture on any standard Ha Giang Loop tour; the last night is usually spent here before returning to Ha Giang the following day. Tourism evolved here by catering to loopers, so there are many homestays to choose from.
The best-known attraction here is Du Gia waterfall (Thác Du Già), but there are other waterfalls and opportunities to trek between villages inhabited by Dao, Hmong, and Tay people.
Du Gia hosts a small but lively market every Saturday.
The return trip from Du Gia to Ha Giang is normally completed by backtracking on DT-176 before heading north to DT-181. Travelling west on DT-181, it will merge into QL-4C for the final leg to Ha Giang. This route is approximately 62 miles (100 km) and takes three hours.
The best-known attraction here is Du Gia waterfall (Thác Du Già), but there are other waterfalls and opportunities to trek between villages inhabited by Dao, Hmong, and Tay people.
Du Gia hosts a small but lively market every Saturday.
The return trip from Du Gia to Ha Giang is normally completed by backtracking on DT-176 before heading north to DT-181. Travelling west on DT-181, it will merge into QL-4C for the final leg to Ha Giang. This route is approximately 62 miles (100 km) and takes three hours.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Ban Luoc, Hoang Su Phi Commune, Tuyen Quang Province
Beyond the three-day Ha Giang Loop
Three days is the minimum number required to complete the loop without rushing through the area and being stuck in a car or on the back of a motorbike for full days.
Travelers who complete the loop by motorcycle as part of an organized tour can easily prolong the journey to four or five full days. Self-driving motorcycle enthusiasts, DIY travelers, and trekkers can add even more days.
During the rainy season, approximately May through October, there can be flooding in the valleys and landslides in the hills and mountains. We recommend allocating more days to compensate for potential delays caused by heavy rain and natural disasters.
Travelers who complete the loop by car or jeep often find that three or four days is enough. As previously mentioned, the basic loop is only 360 kilometers. Beyond that, there are many villages and sights up in the hills and mountains that can only be reached by motorbike or on foot.
To expand on a Ha Giang Loop tour, one can travel eastward through Cao Bang Province to Ban Gioc waterfall (Thác Bản Giốc), another UNESCO Global Geopark.
Another option is to visit the westernmost part of the new Tuyen Quang Province, the former districts of Hoang Su Phi and Xin Man.
Travelers who complete the loop by motorcycle as part of an organized tour can easily prolong the journey to four or five full days. Self-driving motorcycle enthusiasts, DIY travelers, and trekkers can add even more days.
During the rainy season, approximately May through October, there can be flooding in the valleys and landslides in the hills and mountains. We recommend allocating more days to compensate for potential delays caused by heavy rain and natural disasters.
Travelers who complete the loop by car or jeep often find that three or four days is enough. As previously mentioned, the basic loop is only 360 kilometers. Beyond that, there are many villages and sights up in the hills and mountains that can only be reached by motorbike or on foot.
To expand on a Ha Giang Loop tour, one can travel eastward through Cao Bang Province to Ban Gioc waterfall (Thác Bản Giốc), another UNESCO Global Geopark.
Another option is to visit the westernmost part of the new Tuyen Quang Province, the former districts of Hoang Su Phi and Xin Man.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Ban Luoc, Hoang Su Phi Commune, Tuyen Quang Province
Travel to Hoang Su Phi Commune (Xã Hoàng Su Phì)
The former Hoang Su Phi District is one of the most beautiful and remote areas of what is now Tuyên Quang Province. It is well known for its sprawling rice terraces and minority ethnic groups. It is fair to say that some of Vietnam’s most photographed terraces can be found here, many of which have been classified as Natural Heritage Sites. The views are particularly stunning along the stretch of Highway DT-177 that connects Vinh Quang, the former district capital and market town, with National Road QL-2, to the south.
The new Hoang Su Phi Commune consists of Vinh Quang, Ban Luoc, Ngam Dang Vai, Tu Nhan, and Dan Van.
Besides a handful of homestays, visitors will find that, like most parts of far northern Vietnam, Hoang Su Phi has virtually no tourism infrastructure and very few English-speaking residents.
Hoang Su Phi, often combined with the former Xin Man District, is not on the Ha Giang Loop itself, but can be added to private loop tours. Two full days and one night is fairly standard.
The principal towns of Vinh Quang and Coc Pai can now be reached by bus from Ha Giang, Hanoi, or Bac Ha. However, to reach the terraces, travelers need transportation.
The new Hoang Su Phi Commune consists of Vinh Quang, Ban Luoc, Ngam Dang Vai, Tu Nhan, and Dan Van.
Besides a handful of homestays, visitors will find that, like most parts of far northern Vietnam, Hoang Su Phi has virtually no tourism infrastructure and very few English-speaking residents.
Hoang Su Phi, often combined with the former Xin Man District, is not on the Ha Giang Loop itself, but can be added to private loop tours. Two full days and one night is fairly standard.
The principal towns of Vinh Quang and Coc Pai can now be reached by bus from Ha Giang, Hanoi, or Bac Ha. However, to reach the terraces, travelers need transportation.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Nung women trading at Vinh Quang Sunday Market, Hoang Su Phi Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Vinh Quang Sunday Market
Vinh Quang, the former district capital, hosts a lively local market every Sunday. Colorful Dao Ao Dai, Flower Hmong, Nung, and Tay people gather here to buy and sell meat, produce, household goods, handcrafted tools, and traditional minority clothing. A small animal market with chickens, ducks, dogs, goats, pigs, and rabbits is held on the same day.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Na Leng, Ban May Commune, Tuyen Quang Province
Ban May commune (Xã Bản Máy)
Sharing a border with China's Yunnan Province, the new Ban May commune now includes the communities of Ban Phung of Chien Pho. Situated eight miles (13 km) north of Provincial Road DT-178, the former commune of Ban Phung was unknown to mainstream tourists. Like many of these destinations, photographers put it on the map, with the first homestay opening in 2018. The real stars of the show are the La Chi and Tai people who inhabit this remote mountainous area. These are true hill people who, in many ways, live like their ancestors did hundreds of years ago. A very small market is held here every Wednesday.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Xin Man Commune, Tuyên Quang Province
Travel to Xin Man Commune (Xã Xín Mần)
The new Xin Man commune consists of Then Phang, Nan Xin, Ban Diu, and Chi Ca. There is a small but lively market on Thursdays in Nan Xin.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Coc Pai, Pa Vay Su Commune, Tuyen Quang Province
Travel to Pa Vay Su Commune (Xã Pà Vầy Sủ)
Bordering Lao Cai Province, this is the westernmost part of the new Tuyen Quang Province. Pa Vay Su commune consists of Nan Ma, Ban Ngo, and Coc Pai. Coc Pai (Cốc Pài) is the principal town in what was formerly Xin Man District. Situated on road DT- 178, Coc Pai connects Vinh Quang in Hoang Su Phi Commune with Bac Ha Commune in Lao Cai Province. Coc Pai can be reached from Bac Ha via Lung Phinh (Lùng Phình) in one hour by a scenic back road. Very few tourists stay in Coc Pai or the former Xin Man District. Besides a few hotels and homestays, there is little tourism infrastructure. The town holds a small but lively market every Sunday Morning.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Nam Dam, Quan Ba Commune, Tuyen Quang Province
Travel Ha Giang to Sapa
Another popular and common travel route that can be credited to young backpackers is combining a three-day Ha Giang Loop tour with two days in Sapa. To their credit, many young people travel to Sapa specifically to hike up Mt. Fansipan, the so-called roof of Indochina, or participate in two-day/one-night trekking tours and homestay with the Black Hmong people in the Mường Hoa Valley. Both of these activities can be considered unique cultural experiences and are certainly worth doing. However, the bus journey between Ha Giang and Sapa is a solid six hours and will consume the better part of a day. Once again, experienced travelers do not use or recommend overnight buses. There are hiking, trekking, and homestays throughout Tuyen Quang province and in neighboring Bac Ha Commune; no need to go to Sapa unless one has a specific reason to complete the journey.