Travel Mandalay
With a population of over 1.2 million people Mandalay is Myanmar’s second-largest city and was the Kingdom of Burma’s last royal capital. Founded in 1857 by King Mindon at the base of the city’s namesake, Mandalay Hill, the city fell to the British in 1885. Shortly after surrendering, the king and his family were banished to India, a common punishment for those who defied British colonial expansion. Very few of the king’s immediate family ever returned to Burma, yet their former home, Mandalay Palace still stands. Situated in the old city the palace is a popular sightseeing stop in what can be considered the epicenter of Mandalay tourism.
Located 716 km north of Yangon, tourist-friendly Mandalay is an important transportation hub that is included on many travelers’ itineraries. The city can be easily reached from a number of the country's most visited places utilizing a variety of transportation methods. Mandalay has a number of reasonably priced hotels, guest houses and hostels which are accustomed to hosting foreign visitors. The majority of accommodations in laid-back Mandalay, particularly the area around the Royal Palace, will have some English-speaking staff who will often act as travel agents of sorts, booking tours, train and bus tickets which makes exploring the city and surrounding area very easy.
Located 716 km north of Yangon, tourist-friendly Mandalay is an important transportation hub that is included on many travelers’ itineraries. The city can be easily reached from a number of the country's most visited places utilizing a variety of transportation methods. Mandalay has a number of reasonably priced hotels, guest houses and hostels which are accustomed to hosting foreign visitors. The majority of accommodations in laid-back Mandalay, particularly the area around the Royal Palace, will have some English-speaking staff who will often act as travel agents of sorts, booking tours, train and bus tickets which makes exploring the city and surrounding area very easy.
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Marble sculpture, Mandalay Myanmar
Things to do in Mandalay
The city is probably best known for its ornate Buddhist monasteries and historical sites such as the former Royal Palace. The palace is essentially the physical center of the modern city and its tourism epicenter. Many of Mandalay’s most interesting sights can be found here in what is known as the Mandalay Archaeological Zone. In addition to the Royal Palace and the Mandalay Cultural Museum, visitors will find a number of must-see sights in the zone including Myanmar’s second holiest site the Mahamuni Pagoda, the all teak wood Shwenandaw Monastery, Kuthodaw Pagoda and Kyauktawgyi Pagoda. The pagoda-studded Mandalay Hill is also considered to be in the Archaeological Zone. The famous hill is an important pilgrimage site for Myanmar’s Buddhist community. Providing a lovely view over the city, it is hugely popular with both locals and tourists.
Mandalay is also commonly used as a base to explore the ancient cities which lie just out side of town. Amarapura, Inn Wa (Ava), Mingun and Sagaing are well known for their historical and cultural sites that includes pagodas, monasteries and the famous U-Bien Bridge.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Aung Myae Oo Monastic School, Sagaing, Mandalay Region, Myanmar
Travel to Mandalay
Although Mandalay can be reached by plane, train, bus or boat, the fastest and easiest way to travel between Myanmar’s major cities is to fly. However, domestic flights in Myanmar are generally expensive. Budget travelers will find that train or bus travel is far more economical than flying but can be extremely time consuming.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Kuthodaw Pagoda, Mandalay, Myanmar
Air Travel to Mandalay
Mandalay International Airport (MDL) receives domestic flights from Bagan, Bhamo, Heho, Kengtung, Lashio, Myitkyina, Naypyitaw, Putao, Tachileik and Yangon. Some of the reputable airlines that serve this airport include Air Bagan, Air Mandalay and Asian Wings.
Air Asia and Bangkok Airways operate daily direct international flights from Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Silk Air operates flights from Singapore while China Eastern Airlines services Guangzhou and Kunming.
The airport is located 35 km south of the city and can be reached by shuttle-bus or share-taxi (van) for 4000 Myanmar Kyat (MMK). Taxis and Grab Taxis are also available.
Air Asia and Bangkok Airways operate daily direct international flights from Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Silk Air operates flights from Singapore while China Eastern Airlines services Guangzhou and Kunming.
The airport is located 35 km south of the city and can be reached by shuttle-bus or share-taxi (van) for 4000 Myanmar Kyat (MMK). Taxis and Grab Taxis are also available.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Yangon Central Railway Station, Yangon, Myanmar
Train Travel to Mandalay
Mandalay’s Central Railway Station is conveniently located in the city center which makes reaching the station to purchase tickets and board trains very easy. This station is the terminus of the Yangon to Mandalay line; three trains per day make the 622 km trip in approximately 13 to 15 hours.
The Northeastern Railway Line is a popular travelers’ route linking Mandalay and Lashio. Every morning train number 131 departs Mandalay for the former British hill station of Pyin Oo Lwin. From Pyin Oo Lwin it continues on across the Gokteik Viaduct to the well-known trekking destinations of Kyaukme, Hsipaw, and finally Lashio. Only one train makes this journey per day, departing Mandalay at 04:00 and arriving in Lashio at 19:35. On the return trip, the train depart Lashio at 05:00 and arrives in Mandalay at 22:40.
Two trains per day travel between Mandalay and Bagan (Nyaung Oo). The number 120 “express” train makes the 179 km trip in 8 hours while the number 118 train, making all the stops on this route, takes 12 hours. Although this is not the fastest way to get to Bagan it certainly is the least expensive; ordinary class tickets can be purchased for 1,300 MMK or around 1.30 USD. It should be noted that the train station in Nyaung Oo is approximately 9 km from Old Bagan.
Mandalay’s Northern Railway Line departs five times a day for Shwebo, Kawlin, Naba and Myitkyina.
One train per day travels on the Western Railway Line to Monywa. Departing at 05:30 the trip takes 6 hours and costs 700 MMK.
As of April 2020, Myanmar Railways, the state-owned railway company, still does not have a website or any facility for booking train tickets on-line. Although travel agencies and booking sites can organize train tickets, they often do so at a hefty mark-up. Many experienced independent travelers simply show up at the train station and purchase tickets at the time of departure.
The single best online resource for planning train travel in Myanmar is The Man in Seat 61 website.
The Northeastern Railway Line is a popular travelers’ route linking Mandalay and Lashio. Every morning train number 131 departs Mandalay for the former British hill station of Pyin Oo Lwin. From Pyin Oo Lwin it continues on across the Gokteik Viaduct to the well-known trekking destinations of Kyaukme, Hsipaw, and finally Lashio. Only one train makes this journey per day, departing Mandalay at 04:00 and arriving in Lashio at 19:35. On the return trip, the train depart Lashio at 05:00 and arrives in Mandalay at 22:40.
Two trains per day travel between Mandalay and Bagan (Nyaung Oo). The number 120 “express” train makes the 179 km trip in 8 hours while the number 118 train, making all the stops on this route, takes 12 hours. Although this is not the fastest way to get to Bagan it certainly is the least expensive; ordinary class tickets can be purchased for 1,300 MMK or around 1.30 USD. It should be noted that the train station in Nyaung Oo is approximately 9 km from Old Bagan.
Mandalay’s Northern Railway Line departs five times a day for Shwebo, Kawlin, Naba and Myitkyina.
One train per day travels on the Western Railway Line to Monywa. Departing at 05:30 the trip takes 6 hours and costs 700 MMK.
As of April 2020, Myanmar Railways, the state-owned railway company, still does not have a website or any facility for booking train tickets on-line. Although travel agencies and booking sites can organize train tickets, they often do so at a hefty mark-up. Many experienced independent travelers simply show up at the train station and purchase tickets at the time of departure.
The single best online resource for planning train travel in Myanmar is The Man in Seat 61 website.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Hsipaw, Shan State, Myanmar
Bus Travel to Mandalay
With three main bus stations Mandalay is a major bus transportation hub. Almost all of Myanmar’s most interesting and popular travelers’ destinations can be reached from Mandalay. It should be noted that the city’s bus stations are all located on the highway well outside of the city centers. In Mandalay (and Yangon) it is simply easier and more economical to purchase bus and shared taxi tickets from hotels or travel agencies. In Mandalay we bought tickets from an agency which caters specifically to bus travel. Their office is located on 30th Street approximately 300 feet east of the Mandalay Railway station.
Shared Taxi’s are a very common and inexpensive means of transportation in this part of Myanmar. Mini-buses (vans) or even SUVs carry passengers between Mandalay and destinations such as Pyin Oo Lwin, Kalaw, Nyaungshwe.
Shared Taxi’s are a very common and inexpensive means of transportation in this part of Myanmar. Mini-buses (vans) or even SUVs carry passengers between Mandalay and destinations such as Pyin Oo Lwin, Kalaw, Nyaungshwe.
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Pyin Oo Lwin railway station, Pyin Oo Lwin Myanmar
Travel to Pyin Oo Lwin and the Gokteik Viaduct
The charming town of Pyin Oo Lwin, a former British hill station, lies 44 miles (70 km) east of Mandalay. At an altitude of over 3500 feet (1067 m) above sea level, this town is considerably cooler than Mandalay or Yangon and makes for a pleasant change. Budget guest houses often do not have air conditioners, they are simply not needed. Hot showers on the other hand are a big plus particularly in the mornings. Anyone who has been to Yangon can attest to its high temperatures and humidity. To escape the stifling conditions in the capital city before the days of air conditioning, each summer the former colonial government moved its administrative capital to Pyin Oo Lwin. Many of these colonial era buildings are left standing, some still in active use.
One of the main reasons to visit Pyin Oo Lwin is to explore the area south of the Mandalay-Lashio road down towards the entrance of the National Kandawgyi Gardens. This is where you see many colonial era churches, homes, schools and other government buildings on carefully manicured tree lined streets. Looking strangely out of place, brightly painted Victorian era horse drawn carriages are the most common method of transportation.
Depending on your departure city, Pyin Oo Lwin can be reached by train, bus, taxi or share taxi from Yangon, Mandalay, Hsipaw and Lashio. However, a very common traveler’s route is to take a share taxi from Mandalay and spend a day or two in Pyin Oo Lwin, before catching the train to make the journey across the Gokteik Viaduct. A share taxi is a very practical option; the trip is less than an hour and a half and costs around 7 USD.
One of the main reasons to visit Pyin Oo Lwin is to explore the area south of the Mandalay-Lashio road down towards the entrance of the National Kandawgyi Gardens. This is where you see many colonial era churches, homes, schools and other government buildings on carefully manicured tree lined streets. Looking strangely out of place, brightly painted Victorian era horse drawn carriages are the most common method of transportation.
Depending on your departure city, Pyin Oo Lwin can be reached by train, bus, taxi or share taxi from Yangon, Mandalay, Hsipaw and Lashio. However, a very common traveler’s route is to take a share taxi from Mandalay and spend a day or two in Pyin Oo Lwin, before catching the train to make the journey across the Gokteik Viaduct. A share taxi is a very practical option; the trip is less than an hour and a half and costs around 7 USD.
traveltoasiaandback.com - A typical house in rural Myanmar with Gokteik Viaduct in the background, Gokteik Station, Shan State, Myanmar
The train ride across the Gokteik Viaduct is a fantastic experience. The scenery along the entire route is beautiful and crossing over the viaduct is breath taking. Many travelers come to this part of Myanmar specifically to do this one section of the Mandalay to Lashio railway line. Completed in 1900, this traditional trestle bridge spans 2260 feet (689 m) at a height of 355 feet (102 m) over the gorge below. At the time of completion it was the world’s highest bridge and a true engineering marvel.
Traveling from Mandalay towards Lashio there are a number of towns where travelers commonly stop and board the train. Towns on the south side of the Viaduct include Mandalay, Pyin Oo Lwin and Gokteik stations. Popular destinations north of the viaduct are Nawngpeng, Kyaukme, Hsipaw and Lashio. Gokteik and Nawngpeng stations are immediately before and after the viaduct and can be utilized to do the shortest railway route possible.
traveltoasiaandback.com - A small Shan village, Hsipaw, Shan State, Myanmar
Travel Hsipaw
An interesting destination along the Mandalay-Lashio line is the town of Hsipaw. Located in the Shan State approximately 88 miles (142 km) from Pyin Oo Lwin, the trip by train takes approximately 7-8 hours but there are often delays. The train departs Pyin Oo Lwin station at 08:22 AM; tickets can be purchased the afternoon before the journey, a first-class ticket costs less than three dollars. To get the best view when crossing the viaduct request an “A” seat on the left-hand side of the train. When traveling the opposite direction, towards Mandalay, choose a seat on the right-hand side, seats “B” and “C”.
Situated along the banks of the Myitinge River, Hsipaw is a busy market town. You will meet other travelers here, but the large tour groups encountered else where are noticeably absent. In the center of Hsipaw is the central market where Kachin, Palaung (Ta'ang) and Shan people from the surrounding villages come to buy and sell all types of house hold goods, clothing, rice and packaged food. Just around the corner from the central market is the morning market. Here you will find the traders of produce, meat and fish. Wondering around these markets is a great experience, another good opportunity to meet and talk with local people.
Trekking to Shan and Palaung (Ta'ang) villages is probably Hsipaw’s main attraction. Organized treks can easily be booked through guest houses, but it’s also possible to a good bit of hiking on your own. Simply head south on the main road past Hsipaw bank, towards the town’s largest pagoda the Maha Muni (Mahamyatmuni) Paya. Keeping the Pagoda on your right, the road narrows as it winds its way through fields and Shan farming villages along the west bank of the Myitinge River. The well-worn path loops clockwise back towards town and can be completed in a couple of hours. Other sites worth visiting include The Shan Palace and the pagodas of “little Bagan” located next to the all teak wood Maha Nanda Kanata Kyaung Monastery.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Palaung (Ta'ang) costume, Pankam (Pam Kham) Village, Hsipaw, Shan State
Hsipaw Trekking 2019
Unfortunately, much of Shan State can be best described as a conflict zone wherein government forces, known as the Tatmadaw, are in a perpetual state of war with armed rebel minority ethnic groups. There is little doubt that sporadic fire-fights do occur in remote areas of the region but this should be of little concern to the average tourist as the fighting is generally in areas that are off-limits to Foreign Independent Travelers (FITs). In fact, much of Shan State, the entire country actually, is off-limits to FITs and unless you have your own transportation, a permit and guide you will find it virtually impossible to reach these areas.
Hsipaw Township is one of the few places in Shan State that is generally regarded as safe and open to FITs, despite recent rumors to the contrary. Trekking to remote ethnic villages inhabited by friendly Shan and Palaung people is still the mainstay of Hsipaw tourism.
Trekking tours are easily customizable and can be done as either day trips or multi-day hikes that include overnight stays in homestays owned and operated by local minority families. The degree of difficulty and duration can also be adjusted depending on one’s interest. A good example of this is “jungle or adventure trekking”, where local guides lead visitors through dense forest over steep and muddy trails. On the other hand, if one sticks to the main roads and trails, hiking is fairly easy.
Currently, most Hsipaw trekking tours are conducted in a mountainous area roughly 14 kilometers (9 mi) northwest of Hsipaw town. Palaung (Ta'ang) Villages such as Pankam (Pam Kham) have been regularly visited by foreign travelers for many years and are perfectly safe. Despite a regular flow of tourists, these villages are still very authentic; there are no souvenir stands, hotels or restaurants, nor internet or cell phone coverage. Local families offer homestay in simple traditional bamboo houses which offer visitors a unique opportunity to sleep in a rural village, something that is simply not possible in other parts of Shan State.
Although Hsipaw Township and the area around Pankam (Pam Kham) are perfectly safe other areas such as Namsha (Nam Sha) are not. Namsha, for example, is generally considered to be a “no-go” area and several tourists have been injured or killed by landmines. If you want to visit remote areas outside of Hsipaw town by either foot or motorcycle you really need a local guide. This simply isn’t a place to wander around by yourself, something I happily do in Vietnam and China.
Hsipaw Township is one of the few places in Shan State that is generally regarded as safe and open to FITs, despite recent rumors to the contrary. Trekking to remote ethnic villages inhabited by friendly Shan and Palaung people is still the mainstay of Hsipaw tourism.
Trekking tours are easily customizable and can be done as either day trips or multi-day hikes that include overnight stays in homestays owned and operated by local minority families. The degree of difficulty and duration can also be adjusted depending on one’s interest. A good example of this is “jungle or adventure trekking”, where local guides lead visitors through dense forest over steep and muddy trails. On the other hand, if one sticks to the main roads and trails, hiking is fairly easy.
Currently, most Hsipaw trekking tours are conducted in a mountainous area roughly 14 kilometers (9 mi) northwest of Hsipaw town. Palaung (Ta'ang) Villages such as Pankam (Pam Kham) have been regularly visited by foreign travelers for many years and are perfectly safe. Despite a regular flow of tourists, these villages are still very authentic; there are no souvenir stands, hotels or restaurants, nor internet or cell phone coverage. Local families offer homestay in simple traditional bamboo houses which offer visitors a unique opportunity to sleep in a rural village, something that is simply not possible in other parts of Shan State.
Although Hsipaw Township and the area around Pankam (Pam Kham) are perfectly safe other areas such as Namsha (Nam Sha) are not. Namsha, for example, is generally considered to be a “no-go” area and several tourists have been injured or killed by landmines. If you want to visit remote areas outside of Hsipaw town by either foot or motorcycle you really need a local guide. This simply isn’t a place to wander around by yourself, something I happily do in Vietnam and China.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Pankam (Pam Kham) Village, Hsipaw, Shan State
Travel to Hsipaw
Traveling from Hsipaw up to Lashio by train takes at least 4.5 hrs, so many travelers who have already completed the viaduct stretch will choose to continue the journey by bus or share taxi. Like wise, many people heading in the opposite direction back to Mandalay will do the same. Although they can be cramped and less comfortable than a traditional bus, shared taxis have an advantage in that they offer door to door service. They will pick you up at your hotel or guest house and drop you off your next accommodation. The trip from Hsipaw to Mandalay takes approximately four hours and costs around $10 USD and can be booked through guest houses or bus ticket booths.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Lwei Sat Village, Lashio, Shan State, Myanmar
Travel Lashio
The sprawling market town of Lashio is the terminus of the Northern Shan State Railway line and the beginning of the famous Burma Road constructed during World War II. Located 170 kilometers (105 mi) south of Muse-Ruili border crossing. Presently, (April 2020) no border crossing points between Myanmar and China are open to foreigners. Although the town itself is not a common tourism destination, the surrounding countryside does offer visitors the opportunity to trek to remote villages inhabited by Lahu, Lisu, Kachin, Shan, Palaung (Ta’ang) and Wa people. There is at least one outfit in Lashio offering “adventure tours”, that include off-road motorcycle and mountain biking tours in addition to trekking and homestay.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Palaung (Ta'ang) style, Lwei Sat, Lashio, Shan State, Myanmar
Travel to Lashio
Located 279 kilometers (173 mi) east of Mandalay, Lashio can be reached by bus, car or share-taxi in approximately 6 hours.
By train, the journey from Mandalay to Lashio should take approximately 15.5 hours. However, delays are not uncommon and one should not be surprised if the trip takes considerably longer.
Situated 7 kilometers (4.3 mi) from the town center, Lashio (LSH) Airport receives flights from Heho, Mandalay, Tachilek and Yangon from national airlines Air KBZ, Asia Wings Airways and Golden Myanmar Airlines.
By train, the journey from Mandalay to Lashio should take approximately 15.5 hours. However, delays are not uncommon and one should not be surprised if the trip takes considerably longer.
Situated 7 kilometers (4.3 mi) from the town center, Lashio (LSH) Airport receives flights from Heho, Mandalay, Tachilek and Yangon from national airlines Air KBZ, Asia Wings Airways and Golden Myanmar Airlines.
