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Hanoi

Travel Hanoi (Hà Nội)

With a population of nearly nine million people, Hanoi, the nation’s capital, is Vietnam’s second-largest city. Steeped in history, it was Vietnam’s political center from 1010 until 1802, when the Nguyễn Dynasty unified the country and made Hue the capital. The French made Hanoi the center of government once again in 1902, and it remained the capital of French Indochina until 1954. From 1954 to the end of the war in 1975, the city served as the capital of North Vietnam. After the fall of Saigon, it became the capital of the reunified Socialist Republic of Vietnam.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi, Vietnam
traveltoasiaandback.com - Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi, Vietnam

Hoan Kiem Ward

Hanoi is a fascinating city that has become a very popular travel destination. The main tourism hub is the “Old Quarter” neighborhood in what is now known as Hoan Kiem ward. A busy neighborhood composed of buildings left over from the French Colonial period and Chinese shop-houses. This is a great place to find budget hotels, hostels, bars, and restaurants. Numerous travel agencies have set up shop here, aiming to take care of a traveler’s every need. Bus, plane, and train tickets can be purchased through the agencies, as well as day-long and multi-day sightseeing tours. The area is conveniently located close to the city's most famous sites, including the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hoan Kiem Lake, and St. Joseph’s Cathedral. 
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi Vietnam
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi Vietnam

Things to do in Hanoi 

There are many interesting museums within easy reach of the Old Quarter, such as the Ho Chi Minh Museum, the Fine Arts Museum, Hoa Lo Prison, the Vietnam Military History Museum, and the B-52 Victory Museum. The Military History Museum is a fantastic place for history buffs in general and should be of particular interest to anyone planning a journey to Dien Bien Phu.
 
Hoa Lo Prison, known to Americans as the Hanoi Hilton, was built by the French in 1886 primarily to confine Vietnamese who resisted the colonial government. During the war with America, it held POWs, many of whom were airmen, including Senator John McCain.  Most of the original prison was demolished in the mid-1990s to make way for luxury apartments and other commercial developments. The museum currently occupies the section that survived the wrecking ball and has become a very popular tourist attraction easily reached on foot from the Old Quarter. 
 
Less than 100 meters from Hoa Lo Prison is the recently opened Hanoi Police Museum. A visit here is a great way to learn about the city's history and escape the heat, as it is well air-conditioned. As if museum entrance fees in Vietnam weren’t already a bargain, admission to this one is free.

traveltoasiaandback.com - Quang Phu Cau Incense village, Hanoi
traveltoasiaandback.com - Quang Phu Cau Incense village, Hanoi

Quang Phu Cau Incense Village

Search Google Maps for Làng làm hương đỏ, and you will find what appears to be the largest incense factory in the commune. This is undoubtedly the site of the spectacular photos you’ve seen on social media, guidebooks, or in travel magazines.
 
It is not just a factory but a full-on tourist/photography attraction with semi-permanent displays of various colored joss sticks. Here you will see Vietnam’s yellow star on a field of red, the same as the national flag, an outline or “map” of Vietnam, and a lotus flower. They remind me of art installations. Surrounding the art installations are authentic joss sticks in various stages of completion drying in the factory’s open-air “courtyard”. Four balconies overlook the courtyard, resembling scaffolding, allowing photographers to shoot down and across the courtyard to create interesting photos.
 
When we arrived at 08:30, workers were well into their shift. They told me the factory opens at 07:00, and there was already a significant amount of incense put out to dry. Three hours later, at 11:30, the courtyard was almost full. If your goal is to photograph the workers, this is an early morning project. For selfies and family photos, any time will work, but on a sunny summer day, I’d still plan to arrive earlier rather than later. This is certainly not a rainy-day excursion. The admission fee to enter the factory is 50,000 VND.
 
A quick search of Google Maps shows the location of several other factories/showrooms with similar displays and the same 50,000 VND entrance fee. These factories can be visited independently; no tour or tour guide required.

traveltoasiaandback.com - Quang Phu Cau Incense village, Hanoi
traveltoasiaandback.com - Quang Phu Cau Incense village, Hanoi

Travel to Quang Phu Cau Incense Village

Located 40 kilometers (25 mi) south of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the commune can be reached by car, motorcycle, taxi, hire car, Grab, or public transportation. One public transportation option is to utilize Metro line 2A between Cat Linh and Yên Nghĩa stations, and then take the number 91 bus running between Yên Nghĩa and Quang Phu Cau.
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam

Travel to Hanoi

​With its international airport, railway station, and a multitude of public and privately run bus companies, Hanoi is the gateway to northern Vietnam’s best-known destinations. Many travelers begin their Vietnam adventure in this historic city, choosing to use it as a base to visit Ha Long Bay, Ha Giang, Ninh Binh, Mai Chau, and Sapa. Others will head south to the central highlands and the historic cities of Hue, Da Nang, and Hoi An. A common overland route through mainland Southeast Asia often includes an overnight bus from Hanoi to destinations in Laos such as Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, and Vientiane. 
Picturetraveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam

Noi Bai (Nội Bài) International Airport

​Hanoi’s modern and efficient Noi Bai (Nội Bài) International Airport (HAN) receives daily flights operated by dozens of national and international air carriers. It is a hub city for discount carriers VietJet, AirAsia, as well as Vietnam Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air. Noi Bai can be reached from popular Southeast Asian destinations and hubs like Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Luang Prabang, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Singapore. Vietnam Airlines, the national airline, operates numerous domestic and international flights originating throughout Vietnam and around the globe.  
Unfortunately, Noi Bai Airport and Hanoi Railway Station are famous for unscrupulous taxi drivers who often cheat unsuspecting tourists. In one of Hanoi’s most common taxi scams, dishonest drivers speed up the car’s meter, increasing fares by as much as four or five times the correct price. Other scams involve driving passengers well off the shortest route or dropping people off at the wrong hotel. We recommend choosing a reputable taxi company such as the Mai Linh Group. Their easily recognizable green taxi cabs can be found in virtually every major city in Vietnam. The company provides excellent service, and there is rarely a need to be concerned about being cheated. Another easy option, particularly for first-time visitors to Hanoi, is to organize transportation through one’s accommodations. 
Budget travelers often choose to utilize the Number 86 Express Bus. The large and comfortable orange express bus can be boarded at either of the airport’s two terminals. The trip to the Old Quarter in Hanoi takes approximately one hour and costs 45,000 VND or less than $2 USD. The fair can be paid for by cash, credit, or debit card. 
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi Vietnam
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Old Quarter, Hanoi Vietnam

Bus travel in Hanoi

Numerous public and private bus companies operate in Hanoi, connecting the city to some of Vietnam’s best-known northern, central, and southern destinations.

Buses depart Hanoi’s newest bus station, My Dinh, daily for Dien Bien Phu, Ha Giang City, Ha Long Bay, Lao Cai City, Mai Chau, Ninh Binh, and Sapa. Giap Bat station is the gateway to central and southern cities, with service to Hai Phong, the central highlands, and the south.
A word of caution: many Vietnam travel experts (including ourselves) highly discourage visitors from traveling by overnight buses. This is particularly true in the far northern part of the country, where the winding mountain roads are often very narrow. In some places, there is little in the way of guardrails, and falling rocks are quite common. We prefer to travel during the day so we can admire the scenery and get a proper night of sleep.
traveltoasiaandback.com - St Joseph's Cathedral, Hanoi, Vietnam
traveltoasiaandback.com - St Joseph's Cathedral, Hanoi, Vietnam

Train travel in Hanoi

Hanoi’s main railway station, known locally as Ga Hà Nội or Hanoi Station, is the starting point of the 1072-mile (1726 km) rail line to Ho Chi Minh City. Often referred to as the Reunification Express, traveling on the line is particularly popular with budget travelers and backpackers as it stops in some of the country’s most popular destinations such as Nah Trang, Da Nang, and Hue. Traveling by train in Vietnam is a very safe, inexpensive, and reliable option that provides visitors a fantastic opportunity to see the country’s breathtaking scenery while gaining a glimpse into the daily lives of its people. Vietnamese people are very friendly, and you cannot help but interact with them on platforms and railcars. They are more than willing to help visitors navigate the rail system and are generally up for a chat. Unlike railways in some other countries, trains in Vietnam run like clockwork and almost always depart on time; make sure not to arrive at the station late. 

Many travelers journeying to Sapa from Hanoi will opt to take the train to Lao Cai Railway Station and then connect to a local bus or van for the remaining one-hour trip to Sapa. Some people feel that traveling by train is safer than riding by bus or car over the area’s steep and narrow mountain roads. The train is also the least expensive option, with the additional bonus that utilizing the overnight service saves the cost of a hotel room. The downside of this means of transit is that it will take a minimum of nine hours to arrive in Sa Pa.

It is also possible to reach Halong Bay via trains departing from Hanoi’s Yen Vien Railway Station. However, the trains on this route are old and uncomfortable, so most tourists choose to travel to Halong Bay by bus or van.

Train tickets can be purchased in advance at train stations, travel agencies or online through the Vietnam Railways website. Another extremely useful website for planning train travel in Vietnam and all of Southeast Asia is the Man in Seat 61.
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