Travel Mu Cang Chai
Situated approximately 290 kilometers (180 mi) north of Hanoi, in Yen (Yên Bái) Province, Mu Cang Chai (Mù Cang Chải) District is famous for its spectacular terraced rice fields carved from the hills and mountains by a particularly industrious and interesting group of Flower Hmong people.
It could be argued that Mu Cang Chai, along with Sapa and Hoang Su Phi districts are the best locations to view and photograph rice terraces in Vietnam.
In the past few years, there has been a substantial increase of both domestic and foreign tourists to the region, particularly in early to mid-September when ripening rice turns beautiful shades of golden-yellow and the harvest begins.
As tourist numbers increase so does the construction of simple homestays built and operated by friendly Hmong families who are generally eager to host visitors.
It could be argued that Mu Cang Chai, along with Sapa and Hoang Su Phi districts are the best locations to view and photograph rice terraces in Vietnam.
In the past few years, there has been a substantial increase of both domestic and foreign tourists to the region, particularly in early to mid-September when ripening rice turns beautiful shades of golden-yellow and the harvest begins.
As tourist numbers increase so does the construction of simple homestays built and operated by friendly Hmong families who are generally eager to host visitors.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Móng Ngựa (The Horseshoe), Mu Cang Chai, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
As the district’s primary tourism draw is viewing and photographing rice terraces, we prefer to visit the area during rice growing season; roughly early June through September. Often referred to as “green season”, this is the summer rainy season which peaks in July-August. Just like Sapa, Mu Cang Chai can be extremely wet receiving an average of 1800 millimeters (70 in) of rain per year. Traveling in far northern Vietnam during the rainy season requires some degree of patience and flexibility as delays are not uncommon due to localized flooding and landslides.
The Hmong People of Vietnam
Well over 1.3 million Hmong people live in the hills and mountains of Vietnam. Primarily, subsistence farmers, they migrated from China into Northern Vietnam circa 1700 A.D., some 300 years ago, and are one of the fifty-four minority ethnic groups recognized by the Government of Vietnam.
There are many different subgroups of Hmong and several different dialects of their language. In our travels of northern Vietnam, we have met and photographed the: White Hmong (H’mông Trắng, Hmoob Dawb), Flower Hmong (H'Mông Hoa, Hmoob Sib), Red Hmong (H'Mông Đỏ, Hmoob Lees) and the Black Hmong (H'Mông Đen, Hmoob Dub).
These subgroups have subgroups of their own so that groups of White, Flower Hmong, etc., can be found in a number of different Vietnamese and Chinese Provinces. Generally, each sub-sub group wears distinctive clothing which makes the groups easily identifiable.
There are many different subgroups of Hmong and several different dialects of their language. In our travels of northern Vietnam, we have met and photographed the: White Hmong (H’mông Trắng, Hmoob Dawb), Flower Hmong (H'Mông Hoa, Hmoob Sib), Red Hmong (H'Mông Đỏ, Hmoob Lees) and the Black Hmong (H'Mông Đen, Hmoob Dub).
These subgroups have subgroups of their own so that groups of White, Flower Hmong, etc., can be found in a number of different Vietnamese and Chinese Provinces. Generally, each sub-sub group wears distinctive clothing which makes the groups easily identifiable.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Flower Hmong Costume, La Pan Tan, Mu Cang Chai District, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
The Flower Hmong of Mu Cang Chai
The friendly Flower Hmong who live in the hills and mountains of Mu Cang Chai are particularly interesting; they take great pride in their culture and are eager to share their traditions with visitors.
The women and girls of the district still take their traditional costume very seriously and are often dressed from head to toe in a costume that is distinctive to the area’s Flower Hmong. They are masters of embroidery and batik and continue to use handmade hemp cloth, natural indigo dye and bee’s wax to draw the intricate patterns which adorn their clothing.
The women and girls of the district still take their traditional costume very seriously and are often dressed from head to toe in a costume that is distinctive to the area’s Flower Hmong. They are masters of embroidery and batik and continue to use handmade hemp cloth, natural indigo dye and bee’s wax to draw the intricate patterns which adorn their clothing.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Đồi Mâm Xôi, (Raspberry Hill), Mu Cang Chai District, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
Mu Cang Chai Town
Mu Cang Chai town, the district capital, sits along Provincial Road QL-32, the principle road which runs through the district, connecting it to both Nghia Lo (Nghĩa Lộ) and Lai Chau (Lai Châu) Province.
This reasonably tourist friendly town has a number of typical Vietnamese (Southeast Asian) style budget hotels, homestays, restaurants and shops. The town makes a good base to explore the area either independently or with a guide. The locals are very friendly and it’s very easy to find inexpensive motorcycle taxis (xe ôm) to reach the district's most iconic terraced hills or viewing points.
This reasonably tourist friendly town has a number of typical Vietnamese (Southeast Asian) style budget hotels, homestays, restaurants and shops. The town makes a good base to explore the area either independently or with a guide. The locals are very friendly and it’s very easy to find inexpensive motorcycle taxis (xe ôm) to reach the district's most iconic terraced hills or viewing points.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Đồi Mâm Xôi, (Raspberry Hill), Mu Cang Chai District, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
Mu Cang Chai Scenic Viewpoints
The district is well known for its spectacular rice-terraced hills, hillocks, and valleys. One of the most famous, most photographed is (Đồi) Mâm Xôi, or Raspberry Hill in English. Photographs of Mam Xoi can be seen all over Vietnam are often incorrectly used by local travel agencies to promote other areas such as Sa Pa and Ha Giang.
Other popular terraced areas include: Mâm Xôi Bé (Little Raspberry), Cầu Ba Nhà (Three Houses), Đồi của gió (Hill of Wind) and Móng Ngựa (The Horseshoe).
The terraces, or in some cases the best viewpoints, are easily found on Google Maps.
Other popular terraced areas include: Mâm Xôi Bé (Little Raspberry), Cầu Ba Nhà (Three Houses), Đồi của gió (Hill of Wind) and Móng Ngựa (The Horseshoe).
The terraces, or in some cases the best viewpoints, are easily found on Google Maps.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Flower Hmong Costume, La Pan Tan, Mu Cang Chai District, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
Travel in Mu Cang Chai
Some terraced areas such as Cầu Ba Nhà can easily be viewed and photographed from Provincial Road QL-32. Other viewpoints like Mâm Xôi and Điểm chụp Lúa Sán Nhù are up in the hills and can only be reached on foot or motorcycle. Motorcycles taxis (xe ôm) are available to transfer tourists from QL-32 up into the hills via steep, narrow trails.
There is little question that the district offers endless trekking opportunities but the highlight terraced areas previously mentioned are spread over a rather large. Mostly connected by dirt trails, motorcycles are the most practical way to tour the area. Inexperienced riders are advised to travel on the back of a bike with a local.
We have also used a combination of local mini-buses (there are many), xe ôm and walking to cover a large swath of the district.
There is little question that the district offers endless trekking opportunities but the highlight terraced areas previously mentioned are spread over a rather large. Mostly connected by dirt trails, motorcycles are the most practical way to tour the area. Inexperienced riders are advised to travel on the back of a bike with a local.
We have also used a combination of local mini-buses (there are many), xe ôm and walking to cover a large swath of the district.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Đồi Mâm Xôi, (Raspberry Hill), Mu Cang Chai District, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
La Pan Tan
One of our favorite destinations in the district is La Pan Tan (La Pán Tẩn) Commune. Here the terraced rice fields, carved from towering hills, ascend towards the heavens before plunging into the valley below, a roller-coaster of colors and texture as the harvest approaches.
With the exception of the handful of homestays operated by local Flower Hmong families, there are no signs of tourism here. This is a simple farming community: rural Vietnam at its best and still qualifies as off-the-beaten-path.
From La Pan Tan one can follow back-road trails up into the hills through tiny villages, either on foot or by motorcycle, visiting both Mâm Xôi Bé and Đồi Mâm Xôi. From Đồi Mâm Xôi visitors can easily loop back to La Pan Tan via QL-32.
With the exception of the handful of homestays operated by local Flower Hmong families, there are no signs of tourism here. This is a simple farming community: rural Vietnam at its best and still qualifies as off-the-beaten-path.
From La Pan Tan one can follow back-road trails up into the hills through tiny villages, either on foot or by motorcycle, visiting both Mâm Xôi Bé and Đồi Mâm Xôi. From Đồi Mâm Xôi visitors can easily loop back to La Pan Tan via QL-32.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Hmong Batik, La Pan Tan, Mu Cang Chai District, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
Nga Ba Kim
La Pan Tan village is situated three kilometers (1.8 km) north of QL-32 and can be accessed via the tiny crossroad town of Nga Ba Kim (Ngã Ba Kim). Nga Ba Kim features several hotels, homestays, restaurants, typical family-run convenience stores and a small central market. Nga Ba Kim can be used as a base to explore the surrounding countryside.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Cầu Ba Nhà (Mũi Giày), Mu Cang Chai District, Yen Bai Province, Vietnam
Travel to Mu Cang Chai
Provincial Road QL-32, a narrow, sealed two-lane country road runs through the district connecting it to Lai Chau Province to the north and Nghia Lo to the south. Mu Cang Chai District is often included as part of longer motorcycle and car tours and combines well with Sapa District, 159 kilometers (99 mi) further north.
Reaching Mu Cang Chai from Hanoi is relatively easy but can be time-consuming. From Hanoi there area number of sleeper style buses run daily from Hanoi’s My Dinh bus station to Mu Cang Chai via Yen Bai City, Nghia Lo & Tu Le. Several of these buses continue up QL-32 to Lai Chau City.
It is also relatively simple to reach by bus from Hanoi via Yen Bai City, the provincial capital, or Nghia Lo.
There is at least one mini-bus running daily from Lao Cai City to Nghia Lo via Sapa and Mu Cang Chai
Reaching Mu Cang Chai from Hanoi is relatively easy but can be time-consuming. From Hanoi there area number of sleeper style buses run daily from Hanoi’s My Dinh bus station to Mu Cang Chai via Yen Bai City, Nghia Lo & Tu Le. Several of these buses continue up QL-32 to Lai Chau City.
It is also relatively simple to reach by bus from Hanoi via Yen Bai City, the provincial capital, or Nghia Lo.
There is at least one mini-bus running daily from Lao Cai City to Nghia Lo via Sapa and Mu Cang Chai
The Vexere bus booking website is an excellent resource for finding Vietnamese buses (motor coaches), but we suspect many buses, particularly mini-buses don’t make the list. One can also filter for bus type, price etc.
