Travel Lopburi
Located just 87 miles (140 km) north of Bangkok, the small town of Lopburi, the capital of Lopburi Province, is a popular destination for Bangkok residents looking to get outside of the big city for a day trip or even a weekend getaway. This is particularly true from November through January when the sunflowers at nearby Khao Jeen Lae are blooming. It is also a popular stopover for travelers making the journey to Chiang Mai via Thailand’s northern railway line (Northern Line).
Having been continuously inhabited for 3500 years, this region of Thailand has a long and impressive history. Due to its position in the Chao Phraya Basin, Lopburi was an important trading post during the Dvaravati period from the 6th to the 13th century AD. Towards the later part of the 12th century it fell under the control of the Khmer Empire and became the western frontier of Jayavarman VII’s famed Kingdom. During the 17th century, King Narai the Great made Lopburi the second royal capital of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya.
Having been continuously inhabited for 3500 years, this region of Thailand has a long and impressive history. Due to its position in the Chao Phraya Basin, Lopburi was an important trading post during the Dvaravati period from the 6th to the 13th century AD. Towards the later part of the 12th century it fell under the control of the Khmer Empire and became the western frontier of Jayavarman VII’s famed Kingdom. During the 17th century, King Narai the Great made Lopburi the second royal capital of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya.
Numerous historically important sites from the Dvaravati, Khmer and Ayutthaya periods are scattered around this small city. Composed of the ruins of Brahmin and Buddhist prangs (stupas or chedies), temples and shrines, these sites are located in the “Old Town” area near the railway station and are all within walking distance of one another. One of Lopburi’s most impressive ancient sites is Phra Prang Sam Yot. Completed during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1218 AD) this temple marked the beginning of the “Khmer Highway” which led to Angkor Wat some 269 miles (433 km) to the east. As Mahayana Buddhism flourished under Jayavarman, it can be safely assumed that the three prangs of this temple were originally dedicated to the Khmer holy trinity consisting of the Amitabha Buddha and the Bodhisattvas Lokesvara and Prajnaparamita.
Despite its historical importance and abundance of ancient sites, Lopburi is probably best known for its resident monkeys. Yes, monkeys, crab-eating macaques, known as macaca fascicularis by those who study these furry little primates. The area just to the north of the train station, in Old Town, is absolutely infested with them, as is Phra Prang Sam Yot and the Phra Kan Shrine. The monkeys can be seen climbing, leaping and hanging from light posts, electrical cables, traffic signs, car roofs and shop awnings. Rather than being regarded as pests by local residents they are treated like VIPs and very well fed. The town itself conducts three feedings per day; the theory behind this is that if the monkeys do not need to forage for food they are less likely to attack people. But the town’s people individually feed the macaques as well and one can’t help but wonder if the predominantly Buddhist Thai people don’t feel an obligation to be kind and giving to their fellow sentient beings.
Khao Jeen Lae
Sunflowers are a valuable cash crop in Thailand where they are grown for both seeds and oil. Anyone who has spent time in Southeast Asia knows that sunflower seeds are an extremely popular snack food. Visiting and photographing the vast fields in Lopburi and Saraburi provinces has become a popular activity for Thais and foreign tourists alike. There are a number of places where one can see these enormous yellow flowers but for budget travelers without their own transportation we suggest an area known as Khao Jeen Lae. Located approximately 12 miles (20 km) east of the Lopburi railway station in Phatthana Nikhom District, Khao Jeen Lae (Jeen Lae Mountain) is a rocky plateau surrounded by lush farmland. From November through January the fields surrounding the mountain are full of blooming sunflowers.
Visitors to Lopburi have a number of options to reach the Khao Jean Lae fields. Many guest houses offer organized sightseeing tours which include a stop at the fields in addition to other local attractions such as “the peacock temple”. Taxis and tuk-tuks can also be easily hired for round-trip sightseeing tours. However, budget travelers will find that the fields and surrounding sites can be reached very inexpensively, just 20 Thai Baht, by either catching a songthaew or taking bus number 601 from Lopburi’s main bus station.
Travel to Lopburi
Lopburi has a number of tourist-friendly guest houses, budget hotels and plenty of inexpensive places to eat delicious Thai food. There are enough sites in and around Old Town to warrant staying a day or two. Like in most small Thai cities and towns, the locals are extremely friendly, helpful and appear eager to chat with foreign visitors.
Lopburi is a popular stop on a well-worn travelers’ path between Bangkok and Chiang Mai in the north and can be reached very inexpensively by either bus or train. From Bangkok buses and mini-buses (vans) regularly depart from the northern bus terminal known as Mo Chit; the trip takes three hours and costs 100 Thai Baht. Lopburi can also be reached by bus from Ayuttaya and Saraburi.
Lopburi is a popular stop on a well-worn travelers’ path between Bangkok and Chiang Mai in the north and can be reached very inexpensively by either bus or train. From Bangkok buses and mini-buses (vans) regularly depart from the northern bus terminal known as Mo Chit; the trip takes three hours and costs 100 Thai Baht. Lopburi can also be reached by bus from Ayuttaya and Saraburi.
Numerous trains depart daily for Lopburi from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong railway station. Travel time and fare varies depending on which train number and seat class is chosen. There are seven “ordinary” third-class trains departing the station each day; a ticket costs a mere 28 Thai Baht (80 cents). The travel time is approximately three hours. It is advisable to consult the check timetable and fares page from the State Railway of Thailand website before arriving at the station. Travelers continuing on to Chiang Mai can take one of five daily trains which make the trip in roughly eight to twelve hours.