Travel Shan State
Sharing a border with China’s Yunnan Province to the north, Laos to the east and Thailand to the south, Myanmar’s Shan State covers 155,800 square kilometers (60155 mi2), roughly 25% of the country. It is the largest of the nation’s seven states, and with a population of 5.8 million, the 4th most populated region.
Unfortunately, much of Shan State can be best described as a conflict zone wherein government forces, known as the Tatmadaw, are in a perpetual state of war with armed rebel minority ethnic groups. There is little doubt that sporadic fire-fights do occur in remote areas of the region but this should be of little concern to the average tourist as the fighting is generally in areas that are off-limits to Foreign Independent Travelers (FITs). Much of Shan State, the entire country actually, is off-limits to FITs and unless you have personal transportation, a permit and guide you will find it virtually impossible to reach these areas.
Due to travel restrictions within the region, it can be somewhat complicated and time-consuming just to move from one area to another. The town of Keng Tung is a perfect example of this; easily reached by flights from either Mandalay or Heho, FITs are restricted in their movements outside of the town itself and road travel is only permitted to Tachileik.
It can also be extremely difficult to get accurate and up-to-date information on exactly which areas are opened to FITs, even when one is actually in the country. Complicating things further is an abundance of inaccurate advice posted in on-line travel forums and social media groups. For example, after the Myanmar-Laos Friendship border crossing was given “international status” in October of 2018 it was rumored that FIT’s were able to cross into Laos. This turned out to be completely false and as of April 2020 is simply not the case.
Unfortunately, much of Shan State can be best described as a conflict zone wherein government forces, known as the Tatmadaw, are in a perpetual state of war with armed rebel minority ethnic groups. There is little doubt that sporadic fire-fights do occur in remote areas of the region but this should be of little concern to the average tourist as the fighting is generally in areas that are off-limits to Foreign Independent Travelers (FITs). Much of Shan State, the entire country actually, is off-limits to FITs and unless you have personal transportation, a permit and guide you will find it virtually impossible to reach these areas.
Due to travel restrictions within the region, it can be somewhat complicated and time-consuming just to move from one area to another. The town of Keng Tung is a perfect example of this; easily reached by flights from either Mandalay or Heho, FITs are restricted in their movements outside of the town itself and road travel is only permitted to Tachileik.
It can also be extremely difficult to get accurate and up-to-date information on exactly which areas are opened to FITs, even when one is actually in the country. Complicating things further is an abundance of inaccurate advice posted in on-line travel forums and social media groups. For example, after the Myanmar-Laos Friendship border crossing was given “international status” in October of 2018 it was rumored that FIT’s were able to cross into Laos. This turned out to be completely false and as of April 2020 is simply not the case.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Things to do in Shan State
Shan state is perhaps best known for its natural beauty and trekking to remote villages is one of the region’s most popular activities. Destinations such as Kalaw, Hsipaw, and Lashio offer travelers the opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and explore misty hills and mountains inhabited by various minority ethnic groups. Commonly referred to as “hill-people”, these hardworking folks are primarily farmers who still maintain a very traditional way of life. In some areas, it is possible to stay over-night with local families and become fully immersed in village life.
Colorful local markets can be found in virtually every township. These markets are important trading centers for minority people who often live in remote villages far from town. In addition to trading, these gatherings are a time for distant family and friends to reconnect, share a meal, and discuss the latest news and regional events. Market days offer visitors a unique opportunity to interact with locals and get a glimpse into their daily lives. Photo opportunities abound and no travel photographer will pass up a chance to attend a good market.
A train journey across the Gokteik Viaduct is a fantastic experience. The scenery along the entire route is beautiful and crossing over the viaduct is thrilling. An extremely inexpensive travel option, this is a popular route for budget-conscious independent travelers and is often included in organized tours of the region.
Inle Lake, a primary destination on a classic “Big Four” route through Myanmar, can be considered a high-light area for both the natural beauty and the unique culture of its inhabitants.
Colorful local markets can be found in virtually every township. These markets are important trading centers for minority people who often live in remote villages far from town. In addition to trading, these gatherings are a time for distant family and friends to reconnect, share a meal, and discuss the latest news and regional events. Market days offer visitors a unique opportunity to interact with locals and get a glimpse into their daily lives. Photo opportunities abound and no travel photographer will pass up a chance to attend a good market.
A train journey across the Gokteik Viaduct is a fantastic experience. The scenery along the entire route is beautiful and crossing over the viaduct is thrilling. An extremely inexpensive travel option, this is a popular route for budget-conscious independent travelers and is often included in organized tours of the region.
Inle Lake, a primary destination on a classic “Big Four” route through Myanmar, can be considered a high-light area for both the natural beauty and the unique culture of its inhabitants.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Pa-O headdress, Sankar, Shan State, Myanmar
The People of Shan State
Many travelers, particularly photographers are drawn to the region because of the wonderfully fascinating people who live there. Myanmar has 135 officially recognized ethnic-groups, 33 of which live in the state including the Akha, Danu, Intha, Lahu, Lisu, Kayin, Khamu, Palaung, Pa-O, Wa, and of course the Shan. These groups can be further divided into a bewildering number of sub-groups such as the Akee, An (Eng), and the Loi.
This one of the most culturally diverse regions in Myanmar; no less than eight different languages are spoken here. The towns are melting pots of cultures, ethnicities, and religions. Buddhists, Christians, Hindus, and Muslims live side-by-side in peace and harmony.
Roughly 82% of Shan State’s population follows Theravada Buddhism. Buddhist monasteries can be found in virtually every village, or, in many cases, “shared” between several smaller communities. Some ethnic groups such as the Akha, Kayin, Lahu, and Lisu have been converted to Christianity by missionaries. It is interesting to see white painted church steeples nestled in the green hills, not so far from the gilded spires of Buddhist pagodas. Although Christian missionaries of various denominations have been at work in Myanmar since 1813, not all the above-mentioned groups have been converted. Some, like the An (Eng) for example, follow no organized religion and are animists. Animists believe that all people, places, and things have spirits that must be respected.
The Shan people (Tai Shan or Tai Yai) are the largest group and makeup roughly 10% of Myanmar’s total population. The Buddhist Shan are from the Tai–Kadai language group; originally from China, they migrated southward into modern-day Myanmar as early as the 10th century.
The Pa-O are the state’s second (the nation’s third) largest ethnic group. Primarily farmers, these devout Buddhists are easily recognizable in their dark blue clothing and colorful headdress.
This one of the most culturally diverse regions in Myanmar; no less than eight different languages are spoken here. The towns are melting pots of cultures, ethnicities, and religions. Buddhists, Christians, Hindus, and Muslims live side-by-side in peace and harmony.
Roughly 82% of Shan State’s population follows Theravada Buddhism. Buddhist monasteries can be found in virtually every village, or, in many cases, “shared” between several smaller communities. Some ethnic groups such as the Akha, Kayin, Lahu, and Lisu have been converted to Christianity by missionaries. It is interesting to see white painted church steeples nestled in the green hills, not so far from the gilded spires of Buddhist pagodas. Although Christian missionaries of various denominations have been at work in Myanmar since 1813, not all the above-mentioned groups have been converted. Some, like the An (Eng) for example, follow no organized religion and are animists. Animists believe that all people, places, and things have spirits that must be respected.
The Shan people (Tai Shan or Tai Yai) are the largest group and makeup roughly 10% of Myanmar’s total population. The Buddhist Shan are from the Tai–Kadai language group; originally from China, they migrated southward into modern-day Myanmar as early as the 10th century.
The Pa-O are the state’s second (the nation’s third) largest ethnic group. Primarily farmers, these devout Buddhists are easily recognizable in their dark blue clothing and colorful headdress.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Inle Lake
Located in Nyaungshwe Township, Inle Lake covers 116 square kilometers (45 mi²) and is Myanmar’s second-largest natural freshwater lake. Situated on the Shan Plateau between rolling green forested hills, the shallow 22 kilometer (13.6 mi) long lake is both a wildlife and wetland sanctuary. The sanctuary covers 534 km2 (206 sq mi) and includes the lakes south of Inle and wetlands in both Pinlaung and Pekon townships. The site became an ASEAN Heritage Park in 2003 and was listed as an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) in 2004. In 2015 it was added to UNESCO’s world list of World Network of Biosphere Reserves, the first site in Myanmar to earn this distinction.
The shores of Inle Lake are surrounded by marshland where the Intha people, the lake’s primary ethnic group, live in simple wooden stilt-houses. Primarily Buddhists, the Intha are fishermen, artisans, and farmers who are well known for producing vast quantities of tomatoes in their unique “floating gardens”. A series of canals run through the marshland connecting the lake with the town of Nyaungshwe and villages such as Inthein, Nampan, and Ywama.
Simple diesel engine driven canoes are still a primary method of transportation on the lake. The craftsmen of Myanmar are well known for wood carving and producing lacquer-ware; the Intha people are masters of both crafts. These sleek, black hand-crafted boats are both fast and stable and with a shallow draft are well suited for transporting both people and cargo.
The shores of Inle Lake are surrounded by marshland where the Intha people, the lake’s primary ethnic group, live in simple wooden stilt-houses. Primarily Buddhists, the Intha are fishermen, artisans, and farmers who are well known for producing vast quantities of tomatoes in their unique “floating gardens”. A series of canals run through the marshland connecting the lake with the town of Nyaungshwe and villages such as Inthein, Nampan, and Ywama.
Simple diesel engine driven canoes are still a primary method of transportation on the lake. The craftsmen of Myanmar are well known for wood carving and producing lacquer-ware; the Intha people are masters of both crafts. These sleek, black hand-crafted boats are both fast and stable and with a shallow draft are well suited for transporting both people and cargo.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Nyaungshwe
The small town of Nyaungshwe is the gateway to Inle Lake and its tourism hub. The town center is extremely tourist-friendly and offers numerous accommodation and dining options. A 5.5 kilometer (3.4 mi) long canal connects the town with the lake. Boats are available for hire at docks located along Strand Road. Similar to taxis, visitors can hire a boat and boatman for one-way journeys, or by the hour, half-day, full-day, etc. Prices vary considerably depending on the time of year, supply and demand, and distance traveled. Hotels and guest houses can also arrange boat hire and tours of the lake which include stops at markets, Pagodas, the floating (tomato) gardens and artisans craft shops. Some accommodations also offer inexpensive group tours very similar to the cheap bus tours available in other Southeast Asian hot-spots.
Upon arrival in Nyaungshwe visitors are required to pay a 12,500 MMK entrance fee to access the Lake.
Upon arrival in Nyaungshwe visitors are required to pay a 12,500 MMK entrance fee to access the Lake.
traveltoasiaandback.com - The Royal Barge, Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival. Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival
An 18-day festival is held on Inle lake and the surrounding villages each year during Thadingyut which occurs in the seventh month of the Burmese Buddhist lunar calendar. Also known as the lighting festival the exact solar calendar dates vary from year to year, but it generally falls in October.
Located in Ywama Village, Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda is an important Buddhist monastery and is the home of five small sacred Buddha images. Encrusted in numerous layers of gold leaf by devotees, the gilded statues no longer resemble the Buddha: one must use their imagination to see past the mass of glittering foil. During the festival, four of the five images are loaded on the Royal Barge, a simple but ornate wooden craft that resembles a Hintha (Hamsa), a celestial vehicle of Lord Brahma, and makes an 18-day clockwise circumnavigation of the lake. The barge has no power of its own and is towed behind simple watercraft that are rowed by men who utilize the leg-rowing technique that the Intha people of the lake are famous for. The barge is joined by a large procession of vessels and an armada of motorized canoes that follow it as it moves from one village monastery to another. At each village boat-landing, the four very heavy images are painstakingly carried on a palanquin to the village monastery where images will be worshiped by an enormous crowd of monks and laypeople.
The images remain at each monastery for a period of as little as six hours, or, in the case of Nyaungshwe, three days before continuing their journey to the next village.
Located in Ywama Village, Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda is an important Buddhist monastery and is the home of five small sacred Buddha images. Encrusted in numerous layers of gold leaf by devotees, the gilded statues no longer resemble the Buddha: one must use their imagination to see past the mass of glittering foil. During the festival, four of the five images are loaded on the Royal Barge, a simple but ornate wooden craft that resembles a Hintha (Hamsa), a celestial vehicle of Lord Brahma, and makes an 18-day clockwise circumnavigation of the lake. The barge has no power of its own and is towed behind simple watercraft that are rowed by men who utilize the leg-rowing technique that the Intha people of the lake are famous for. The barge is joined by a large procession of vessels and an armada of motorized canoes that follow it as it moves from one village monastery to another. At each village boat-landing, the four very heavy images are painstakingly carried on a palanquin to the village monastery where images will be worshiped by an enormous crowd of monks and laypeople.
The images remain at each monastery for a period of as little as six hours, or, in the case of Nyaungshwe, three days before continuing their journey to the next village.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Market day, Nampan, Shan State, Myanmar
Shan State / Inle Lake Five-Day Markets
Operating on a rotating five-day cycle, over 20 traditional local markets, market days, are held in Taunggyi District, which includes Kalaw, Nyaungshwe, and the villages surrounding the lakes. Markets are held daily as per the lunar calendar other than full and new moon days. While some of the markets closest to Inle, such as Ywama floating market and Nam Pam could be described as touristy, many others, further afield, see relatively few western travelers. A quick Google search will yield several “market calendars”, but we recommend double-checking with the locals to confirm the exact date for any particular town or village.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Sunken stupas, Taw Mwe Khaung Pagoda, Sankar, Shan State, Myanmar
Sankar (Samkar, Samka)
Located approximately 61 kilometers (38 mi) south of Nyaungshwe is another body of water, which is referred to as South Inle or Sankar Lake. A highlight of this area is the small, isolated village of Sankar (Samkar, Samka) best known for the Taw Mwe Khaung Pagoda Complex and its sunken stupas. Situated at the north end of Sankar Lake, the village can be reached by either road or by water from Nyaungshwe via waterway known as Balu Chaung creek. The boat journey from Nyaungshwe takes roughly three hours and makes for an interesting all-day outing.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Collecting aquatic weed for organic farming in the floating gardens, Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Pekon
To the south of Sankar is a body of water known as Pekon or Moebyel Lake. Moebyel (Moe By, Moe Bye) is the name of a town and dam in Pekon Township. Completed in 1970, Moebyel dam is a component of the Lawpita hydropower project, Myanmar’s first large-scale hydroelectric venture. Damming the Balu Chaung River created this man-made lake (reservoir) which is included in the Inle Lake Wetland Sanctuary.
It is possible to hire a boat in either Nyaungshwe or Pekon and travel the entire length of the three lakes in around five to six hours. From Pekon it is easy to reach Loikaw, Kayah State, located 25 kilometers (15.5 mi) to the southeast, by bus, van, or hire-car.
Situated on Road 54 Pekon is well connected to Pinlaung (67 km, 42 mi) and Aungpan (138 km, 86mi) by full-sized buses and mini-buses (vans).
It is possible to hire a boat in either Nyaungshwe or Pekon and travel the entire length of the three lakes in around five to six hours. From Pekon it is easy to reach Loikaw, Kayah State, located 25 kilometers (15.5 mi) to the southeast, by bus, van, or hire-car.
Situated on Road 54 Pekon is well connected to Pinlaung (67 km, 42 mi) and Aungpan (138 km, 86mi) by full-sized buses and mini-buses (vans).
traveltoasiaandback.com - Pa-O prayers, Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Pinlaung
Yet another small town off the usual tourist trail, Pinlaung hosts several big markets that attract minority people, such as the Pao-O, from their hillside villages. Situated on Road 54 roughly halfway between Loikaw and Aungpan, the town makes a good stopping point to break up long road trips and visit traditional markets often overlooked by travelers.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Aungpan (Aungban)
The small market town of Aungpan (Aungban) is omitted in some guide books and is generally not a tourist destination. However, the town comes alive every five days when it hosts one of Shan State’s biggest five-day markets. It is also a transportation hub of sorts as it has a railway station and is strategically situated between Kalaw and Taunggyi close to the junctions of road numbers 41, 43, and 54.
Road 54, it would be a stretch of the imagination to refer to these sealed roads as highways, runs southward through Pinlaung, Pekon, and on to Loikaw in Kayah State. This route is serviced by both vans and full-sized motor coaches that run fairly frequently between Loikaw and Taunggyi.
Road 41/43, are currently (May 2020) open to FITs, and connect Nyaungshwe with Nawnghkio 233 kilometers (145 mi) to the north. Nawnghkio is another small highway town that has little to offer most tourists. However, it is strategically located on both National Highway 3 and the Northern Shan State Railway Line and happens to be the closest town to the Gokteik Viaduct.
Road 54, it would be a stretch of the imagination to refer to these sealed roads as highways, runs southward through Pinlaung, Pekon, and on to Loikaw in Kayah State. This route is serviced by both vans and full-sized motor coaches that run fairly frequently between Loikaw and Taunggyi.
Road 41/43, are currently (May 2020) open to FITs, and connect Nyaungshwe with Nawnghkio 233 kilometers (145 mi) to the north. Nawnghkio is another small highway town that has little to offer most tourists. However, it is strategically located on both National Highway 3 and the Northern Shan State Railway Line and happens to be the closest town to the Gokteik Viaduct.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Inle Lake, Shan State, Myanmar
Kalaw
Situated on the highway 63 kilometers (39 mi) west of Nyaungshwe, this former British Hill Station is a tourist-friendly destination best known for trekking in the surrounding hills and mountains. Local guides can be hired for hikes to remote minority ethnic villages or visitors can simply walk up into the hills independently. It is the starting point for the two- or three-days treks to Inle Lake; a popular activity with backpackers and budget travelers. With a variety of budget accommodations and surprisingly good restaurants, the charming small town is an excellent place to break up long road trips.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Shan costume, Hsipaw, Shan State, Myanmar
Travel in Shan State
Travel in Shan State, and the rest of the country, can be extremely slow and time-consuming. Although the principle roads in the state are sealed and in surprisingly good condition, they are often narrow with only two-lanes for a fairly large volume of traffic. Budget travelers, who often use inexpensive buses, can expect to travel at a rate of approximately 40 kph (25 mph). Traveling by hire-car or share-taxi is much more efficient and one can safely plan on reaching speeds of up to 60 kph (37 mph).
traveltoasiaandback.com - Palaung (Ta'ang) style, Pam Kham, Hsipaw, Shan State, Myanmar
Air Travel in Shan State
The townships of Heho (for Nyaungshwe / Inle Lake), Lashio, Keng Tung, and Tachilek have domestic airports that connect Shan State with both Mandalay and Yangon.
Air KBZ, Golden Myanmar, Myanmar National Airlines, Mann Yadanarpon Airlines and Yangon Air are the country’s current (May 2020) operating domestic carriers. All of which allow online bookings and we strongly recommend booking flights directly with the airlines and avoid using third parties like travel agencies and online booking sites.
Unfortunately, domestic air travel in Myanmar is expensive when compared to other Asian nations. Airfares are generally fixed and carriers do not offer promotions or discounted fares. Prices tend to be the same no matter how far in advance one makes a booking, so usually, there is no need to make a booking more than one week ahead of time.
Please bear in mind that flight delays are not uncommon in Myanmar particularly during the summer monsoon season. Some airports, Heho for example, often experience delays due to fog in the winter months.
Air KBZ, Golden Myanmar, Myanmar National Airlines, Mann Yadanarpon Airlines and Yangon Air are the country’s current (May 2020) operating domestic carriers. All of which allow online bookings and we strongly recommend booking flights directly with the airlines and avoid using third parties like travel agencies and online booking sites.
Unfortunately, domestic air travel in Myanmar is expensive when compared to other Asian nations. Airfares are generally fixed and carriers do not offer promotions or discounted fares. Prices tend to be the same no matter how far in advance one makes a booking, so usually, there is no need to make a booking more than one week ahead of time.
Please bear in mind that flight delays are not uncommon in Myanmar particularly during the summer monsoon season. Some airports, Heho for example, often experience delays due to fog in the winter months.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Papaversomniferum, Shan State, Myanmar
Bus Travel in Shan State
Shan State’s principal tourist destinations are well connected by full-sized motor coaches, vans, and share taxis. Generally speaking, it is not necessary to book seats more than a day in advance. Accommodations that are licensed to host foreign travelers are usually more than happy to book bus tickets and organize share-taxis and hire cars. When booking bus seats, we usually request a bus company that includes transportation from the hotel.
traveltoasiaandback.com - Papaversomniferum, Shan State, Myanmar
Train Travel in Shan State
Train travel in the state is beyond slow but an adventure that railway buffs and travel photographers will surly enjoy. Traveling in Myanmar by train can be a fantastic experience. It gives us gives us a unique opportunity to interact with local people and get a glimpse into their daily lives. Some might argue that the journey across the Goteik Viaduct is one of the world's most spectacular train rides. Train travel is also very economical; the seven-hour trip from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw is less than $4 USD.
The downside of train travel in Myanmar is that maintenance of the tracks and trains is rather poor and many will find that the cleanliness of the coaches, toilets and berths not up to Western standards. The simple fact is that the system is old and tired, much of the railway originally built by the British in the late 1800's to early 1900's & later rebuilt after World War II. Another point is that the cars have a tendency sway bounce rather violently making sleeping difficult or impossible. For these reasons, it’s generally not recommended to take over night trains. The best part of train travel is the stunning scenery, so travel during the day while you are well rested and can really enjoy the trip. Click here for an excellent website we used to plan train travel in Myanmar. Unlike the bus stations, railway stations in Yangon and Mandalay are conveniently located in the city centers. It's best to go to the stations the day before your trip to purchase tickets and verify departure times.
As of April 2020, Myanmar Railways, the state-owned railway company, still does not have a website or any facility for booking train tickets on-line. Although travel agencies and booking sites can organize train tickets, they often do so at a hefty mark-up. Many experienced independent travelers simply show up at the train station and purchase tickets at the time of departure.
The single best online resource for planning train travel in Myanmar is The Man in Seat 61 website.
The downside of train travel in Myanmar is that maintenance of the tracks and trains is rather poor and many will find that the cleanliness of the coaches, toilets and berths not up to Western standards. The simple fact is that the system is old and tired, much of the railway originally built by the British in the late 1800's to early 1900's & later rebuilt after World War II. Another point is that the cars have a tendency sway bounce rather violently making sleeping difficult or impossible. For these reasons, it’s generally not recommended to take over night trains. The best part of train travel is the stunning scenery, so travel during the day while you are well rested and can really enjoy the trip. Click here for an excellent website we used to plan train travel in Myanmar. Unlike the bus stations, railway stations in Yangon and Mandalay are conveniently located in the city centers. It's best to go to the stations the day before your trip to purchase tickets and verify departure times.
As of April 2020, Myanmar Railways, the state-owned railway company, still does not have a website or any facility for booking train tickets on-line. Although travel agencies and booking sites can organize train tickets, they often do so at a hefty mark-up. Many experienced independent travelers simply show up at the train station and purchase tickets at the time of departure.
The single best online resource for planning train travel in Myanmar is The Man in Seat 61 website.
